The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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all in nitrocellulose lacquer
So glad to read this. I used to spray nitrocellulose lacquer - not on cars but on musical instruments. Former life - another hobby/career... More modern finishes do not have the same acoustic properties as the nitrocellulose. I didn't even realize it was used in the automotive world. But I loved the stuff!
However, I will not be using it on my car. :D I would think it is too brittle in this application.
 
So glad to read this. I used to spray nitrocellulose lacquer - not on cars but on musical instruments. .

Cool. Do you know Curtain and Alf (violin markers)? Stringer instruments are still finished with shellac, and they said the brittleness can be a good thing acoustically.

But for cars we want flexible .
 
Scott,

I was looking at the video to find the few paint spots that could use a little more attention but kept being drawn to the incorrect screws on your front drivers side indicator light lens. You should change them out to be the correct metal color and head type. They are more obvious with the clear lenses and a whole lot easier to address than the paint imperfections.
 
Scott,

I was looking at the video to find the few paint spots that could use a little more attention but kept being drawn to the incorrect screws on your front drivers side indicator light lens. You should change them out to be the correct metal color and head type. They are more obvious with the clear lenses and a whole lot easier to address than the paint imperfections.


i noticed that too. i hope their attn to detail improves.... but this is very minor and can be easily fixed of course. There paint work is amazing overall
 
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I purposely have not stopped by for a few days per your collective recommendation. I just called Benny to say "hi" and see how things were going. He said that everything is moving ahead well, and the chrome is the hold up. I called the chrome guy yesterday who said he was "working on the window chrome stuff yesterday and will call me when done, but should be this week." I told Benny I am planning on taking the car to SLC to track on June 21. He said that shouldn't be a problem at all, and we should finish well in advance to ensure all is well. Whew! I will believe it when I see it though.

I did raise the issue of the noticeable imperfections with him and he assured me the buffing, etc. was far from done and he would not let the car go with any noticeable issues. Whew.

I did tell him that you guys said: "Don’t put belt trim on until last possible moment, making sure you don’t put rear window and rear seat, in before belt trim." He understands why not to put rear seat in, but asked for why he can't put rear window in before belt trim? I told him I would ask you. Any thoughts are appreciated as we hope to put windows in early next week, before belt trim.

Also, JP at La Jolla/Carl Nelson says seal for trunk will take a week to get in as you have to do it slowly. Is that your experience? Benny has no idea why this is so hard, but anything that takes a week needs to be accounted for now.

Lastly, I asked him again to look at the detailed information everyone provided on the front bumper mount, and told him I would throw some more money to make this right. He agreed to look at it carefully and adjust as needed.

He is going to try the Colorbond stuff on the interior.

I will take a video tomorrow, but things are moving along well. I will be in NYC next week so will stay out of his hair for another week then too.

Thanks again for all your help.

Scott
 
Today's update:
  • Benny thinks bumpers are fine, and I will not remove
  • He is not upset with me at all
  • All is good!
Thanks everyone.

 
Looks very very good Scott! You are definitely going to accomplish that look that you are going for. You should hire a local photographer to snap some pics when you are done. Post them on instagram and break the internet. :D I recommend doing that before you take it to the track. ;)

I kind of skimmed through the video but some thoughts:

* The 1974 had a black-slat kidney. The all aluminum grille will look really sharp if you want to keep it. If not, you can actually remove the slats and paint them or anodize them black. A black candy paint would look nice. Personally I would leave it all aluminum as the contrast really pops

* I'd stop stressing about the bumper. There is no "proper" way to mount an early bumper on a 1974, as the whole job is custom. Even if it was removable you probably wouldn't do it more than once. Just like coilovers, the idea of adjustability is really just an idea. Reality is set-it-and-forget-it.

* Where did the holes for your side mirrors go?

* The width of your dash wood looks about right to me in this video

* Do you have license plate lights that fit into the bumpers

* When you spray the seats you should consider removing the chrome side pieces. You may want to just tape off the aluminum back trim as it is a pain to remove. AFAIK it is riveted in place.
 
Looks very very good Scott! You are definitely going to accomplish that look that you are going for. You should hire a local photographer to snap some pics when you are done. Post them on instagram and break the internet. :D I recommend doing that before you take it to the track. ;)

I kind of skimmed through the video but some thoughts:

* The 1974 had a black-slat kidney. The all aluminum grille will look really sharp if you want to keep it. If not, you can actually remove the slats and paint them or anodize them black. A black candy paint would look nice. Personally I would leave it all aluminum as the contrast really pops

* I'd stop stressing about the bumper. There is no "proper" way to mount an early bumper on a 1974, as the whole job is custom. Even if it was removable you probably wouldn't do it more than once. Just like coilovers, the idea of adjustability is really just an idea. Reality is set-it-and-forget-it.

* Where did the holes for your side mirrors go?

* The width of your dash wood looks about right to me in this video

* Do you have license plate lights that fit into the bumpers

* When you spray the seats you should consider removing the chrome side pieces. You may want to just tape off the aluminum back trim as it is a pain to remove. AFAIK it is riveted in place.

Not sure about the Sideview mirrors but I purchased a passenger and they are going to put them as far forward as they can go. I like the chrome and the kidney and just need to get it cleaned up. We have the lights for the license plate. Getting very excited and agree about taping off the seats.
 
Not sure about the Sideview mirrors but I purchased a passenger and they are going to put them as far forward as they can go. I like the chrome and the kidney and just need to get it cleaned up. We have the lights for the license plate. Getting very excited and agree about taping off the seats.

Ahh they probably filled the old holes for that reason. You may want to have a member measure the location of the mirror to the leading edge of the door. If it is going to be a bit, I can measure mine. The mirror is off the car so I can measure the mounting plate location.
 
Ahh they probably filled the old holes for that reason. You may want to have a member measure the location of the mirror to the leading edge of the door. If it is going to be a bit, I can measure mine. The mirror is off the car so I can measure the mounting plate location.
Yes if someone could give me a proper measurement for the mirrors I would appreciate it but I was hoping to just gas and make or forward as they can without interfering with the Sideview mirror thing
 
someone on Facebook posted this about the wood: Sorry to knit pick but, the finish on the wood trim is "starving" for more clear coat .Walnut is an "open pored" wood and requires several coats with sanding between coats. The finish build as it is now, needs another good sand (280 grit) and then start building coats of clear(sanding between coats)until there are no longer wood pores visible when held up to the light.

Agree?
 
someone on Facebook posted this about the wood: Sorry to knit pick but, the finish on the wood trim is "starving" for more clear coat .Walnut is an "open pored" wood and requires several coats with sanding between coats. The finish build as it is now, needs another good sand (280 grit) and then start building coats of clear(sanding between coats)until there are no longer wood pores visible when held up to the light.

Agree?

It definitely isn't up to Bela's standards but who am I to point that out. You can see the imperfections on the lower edge of the wood in the video when you move it back and forth in the light. Several coats of clear plus sanding would probably hide that. Also the dashboard biscuits aren't a very good match. Anyway, the original satin finish is smooth with no exposed pores. I'm only bringing it up because you asked, and now is the time to make adjustments if desired.
 
It definitely isn't up to Bela's standards but who am I to point that out. You can see the imperfections on the lower edge of the wood in the video when you move it back and forth in the light. Several coats of clear plus sanding would probably hide that. Also the dashboard biscuits aren't a very good match. Anyway, the original satin finish is smooth with no exposed pores. I'm only bringing it up because you asked, and now is the time to make adjustments if desired.

I agree. I hope they can fix this.
 
Walnut is an "open pored" wood and requires several coats with sanding between coats.
I tend to agree that the wood looks more "finished" (or finished to a higher level) when the pores are all filled and the finish is leveled and faired. Don't know that it is essential, but I think it is a nice level of detail/finish.
 
How hard would it be to sand/finish if installed? I think Gary was installing the wood today. I sent this to him right away but didn't hear back. Frankly, I agree with all of you but not sure I want to battle this. My wood guy disappointed me and didn't really finish cuz I was pushing him to be DONE awhile ago since I thought it needed to be done then.
 
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