Just google them. I just got mine and It’s first class get the thicker of the two offered
What did you do to your E9 today?
- Thread starter adawil2002
- Start date
Yup...different search engine...result: Classic 9 Hood Liner Heat Shield Insulation
Hullo
Over a two day period I Installed the main portion of the dash with the assistance of a rubber mallet, not for the faint of heart with all that new wood!. day 2 I detailed and installed the heater assembly, and on that note my heater control panel is in German? how common is that on a CSL ?
Over a two day period I Installed the main portion of the dash with the assistance of a rubber mallet, not for the faint of heart with all that new wood!. day 2 I detailed and installed the heater assembly, and on that note my heater control panel is in German? how common is that on a CSL ?
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Spent 3 hours chasing a short in my ebrake light circuit only to realize, after tracing the wiring diagram, that my brake fluid was low! Duh!
I haven't seen the coupe for a few months so we went on a nice Father's Day drive in the mountains
Depends on your year I think. My 72 CS has it in German. Can't remember for the CSL but it might be English.
My wife and I took the old girl out for a drive this morning, the first time I've driven it since maybe October. We were joking about how long we've had it, our kids were toddlers when I bought it, our oldest daughter just graduated from WSU and our other daughter will be a senior at the University of Oregon this fall. It's just part of the family.
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So decided to do a day of cleaning.
Washed, clayed, polished and waxed the car.
I think she’s looking better and a tiny bit more shiny.
Washed, clayed, polished and waxed the car.
I think she’s looking better and a tiny bit more shiny.
Thanks! The wheels are fairly rare staggered 17 inch Style 5s (8s and 9s). The tires are 225/45zr17s in front and 245/40zr17s in back. Front fenders are rolled. I had the car professionally lowered 15 years ago so I don't remember all of the details. H&R springs, Bilsteins, and bigger sway bars front and rear.
My daily driver is at VSR getting some love so the E9 has been my daily driver. I forgot how satisfying this car is. The more I drive it th5e happier it is
Sat in the E9 up a lift pumping the brakes (bleeding) while trying to fix servos and now leaking rear brake compensator.
not a successful day! view from the car:
not a successful day! view from the car:
Gonzoct
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Celebrating 9 years of e9 ownership
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Your car looks great, fantastic colour.
It's Tundra again.
Drove her home from LJI with newly converted R134a AC and newly crisp steering thanks to new center drag link and tie rod ends. Drives so nice I spent the afternoon detail cleaning and promoted her to daily driver status. Well, fair-weather DD status. Never going to get wet ever again!
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Installed an electric fan. Used the DeRale controller with a temperature probe in the radiator fins.
I added the 70 amp fuse as a failsafe, and also, it makes for a nifty anti-theft interrupt, as you cannot see the fuse (missing) when the cover is installed. I figure every car booster has one of those green battery ground interrupt knobs in his pocket at all times.
While I was in there, and since I had already made a mess from opening the coolant system, I installed the heater bypass valve from Old Air Products. Rob Siegel has done a good write-up on this.
This is how the valve fits. It's tight, but it fits. If you haven't read Rob's thread, you should - pay attention when he says to plug the connector into the valve before final mounting!
The hardest part was mounting the valve with the two short hoses to the heater fittings. Everything else fit together pretty easily.
I had ordered special hoses with elbows, diameter reducer adapters, and plastic elbows, but I was able to use the original water pump to heater hose (cut down), and add the long elbow hoses for the valve head to heater connection. Luckily, Old Air provides a couple of rubber sections to make up the diameter difference for the heater hoses. I had to cut them in half, as you need four for the bypass valve.
The local hardware store had this handy coupler that fit the hose diameter exactly, so I was able to make this long loop with no kinks.
And you'll need four more hose clamps for the valve, six if you splice hoses as I did.
I added the 70 amp fuse as a failsafe, and also, it makes for a nifty anti-theft interrupt, as you cannot see the fuse (missing) when the cover is installed. I figure every car booster has one of those green battery ground interrupt knobs in his pocket at all times.
While I was in there, and since I had already made a mess from opening the coolant system, I installed the heater bypass valve from Old Air Products. Rob Siegel has done a good write-up on this.
This is how the valve fits. It's tight, but it fits. If you haven't read Rob's thread, you should - pay attention when he says to plug the connector into the valve before final mounting!
The hardest part was mounting the valve with the two short hoses to the heater fittings. Everything else fit together pretty easily.
I had ordered special hoses with elbows, diameter reducer adapters, and plastic elbows, but I was able to use the original water pump to heater hose (cut down), and add the long elbow hoses for the valve head to heater connection. Luckily, Old Air provides a couple of rubber sections to make up the diameter difference for the heater hoses. I had to cut them in half, as you need four for the bypass valve.
The local hardware store had this handy coupler that fit the hose diameter exactly, so I was able to make this long loop with no kinks.
And you'll need four more hose clamps for the valve, six if you splice hoses as I did.
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@Willem Tell, most excellent!
Heater bypass is a must on these. VSR installed a solenoid bypass valve on my car in 2015. Powered by a yellow button fog light switch.
Heater bypass is a must on these. VSR installed a solenoid bypass valve on my car in 2015. Powered by a yellow button fog light switch.