What did you do to your E9 today?

Finally got the interior all together the day before NY
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and did a NYD drive with about 30 other various cars...
 
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much appreciation for people like Christoph who make repro parts for our cars.
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Looks great Steve. Christoph makes his repro parts better than the originals. I replaced my trunk floor panels with his and after seeing your pics whished I had also bought his firewall insulation. I bought the overpriced BMW original insulation and the foam has teared at all the corners of the hanging clip fasteners.
 
Finished my firewall rehab, cleaned up and painted with POR-15 high temp as prep for my new insulation from cs-werke:

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then installed the new pieces, some cutting was necessary to clear the a/c hoses on the left and the heater hose, no biggie. My old pieces were held together with several layersof spray paint over the years:

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much appreciation for people like Christoph who make repro parts for our cars.
Steve, that looks great. Do you have a thread on your engine rebuild? Would be interesting to see. Seems we don't get too many in-detail, hard-core technical threads these days.
 
My project is installing piano top pistons in place of my USA ones to get a few more HP to go with the Webers and cam, with the engine in situ as per the Blue manual. The engine has 90k miles on it so I am not boring out etc, just honing, new bearings, and getting the replacemet pistons put on my con rods and balanced (still at the machinist), then back in. In theory of course. It actually is pretty easy to get the pistons out once the head and oil pan are off. I did not want to go to the pain of yanking the engine, perhaps a mistake. I have taken pics and will post when complete. If it blows up then I'll do a full rebuild thread while someone with true skills does the work!

Steve, that looks great. Do you have a thread on your engine rebuild? Would be interesting to see. Seems we don't get too many in-detail, hard-core technical threads these days.
 
No but a lot less hassle with a lift and having done it once before. Loosen the tranny support. Remove the PS pump bracket (not fun) and sway bar. Loosen all the way but not remove the nuts top and bottom for each motor mount. Put #6 cylinder at TDC to get the crank out of the way back there. Unscrew the endless number of pan bolts. Then jack the engine up until you can maniplulate the pan out the front and under the oil pump. Some zen touch and select curse words required. If you can do it without having to remove the nuts from the motor mounts then the engine will lower right back in place.

removing oil pan can’t be fun?
 
It actually is pretty easy to get the pistons out once the head and oil pan are off. !
Steve,
I’ve done this before on other engines and it worked out great as a high value upgrade (bang for the buck). I’d wish you good luck but you are too good to needed it.
John
 
Blackstone oil analysis. @Ohmess mentioned this in some oil threads and I was curious. Good news is no gas or water in the oil. Bad news is ring and bearing wear. Posting it here in case anyone else hasn't done that and may be curious. It was $40.
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Finished a 2 month long project, the main objective of which was to install euro high compression piano top pistons in situ in my original engine to compliment the head's Schrick cam and triple Webers and VGS cold air intake box. Plus many, many side projects along the way. Sucess, the engine runs great with more grunt, and it didn't grenade on it's break in run! Special shout out to Rick @stphers who took me under his wing and answered a lot of stupid questions, and @Wes for selling me the pistons, they live on! Details to follow.
 
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My Korman engine now has 6000 miles on it ,so I'm just doing the mundane stuff like installing chrome-plated brass trunk badges (3.0CS) and the CoupeKing Alpina lug nuts. The nuts fit the BBS Mahle wheels perfectly and replaced the cheap chrome already coming off EBay variety.

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Drew, many Mahle wheels use a bolt with a rounded seat used by MB and others and the center is much thicker requiring longer bolts. You have a traditional lug nut but have you checked the seat for the nut? Are your studs long enough?
 
Drew, many Mahle wheels use a bolt with a rounded seat used by MB and others and the center is much thicker requiring longer bolts. You have a traditional lug nut but have you checked the seat for the nut? Are your studs long enough?
Chris--All of the lug studs were replaced and cut to a certain length by the shop. They have 3/4" of thread beyond the tapered hole in the wheels. The EBay nuts turn 11.5 turns before hand tight. The Alpina nuts have the same 11.5 turns. After making that 260 mile trip to the Naples car show, I noticed that all 4 wheels were still on the car when I pulled into my garage yesterday. Drew
 
Chris--All of the lug studs were replaced and cut to a certain length by the shop. They have 3/4" of thread beyond the tapered hole in the wheels. The EBay nuts turn 11.5 turns before hand tight. The Alpina nuts have the same 11.5 turns. After making that 260 mile trip to the Naples car show, I noticed that all 4 wheels were still on the car when I pulled into my garage yesterday. Drew
Super, I forgot that you shared that a while ago. Just wondered about shape of lug nut seats.
 

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