1972 E9 3.0 CSI - Chamonix

RTHLSS1

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Wing sticker for fender grill was delivered and is now fitted for second time and this time I am happy with its position.

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Working on exhaust tip to see how far out to position it

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Ventilation was not working so we take apart blower motor. Now it is working but it is making noise like it is rubbing against something can’t figure it where or it is maybe just out of balance

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Installed new wiper tank and ventilation cover but will have to take it off again to access the blower.

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Installed door cards

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Installed new gear boot and knob.

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Had the rods rebuilt and new sway bar rubber bushings were fitted.

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Installed BBS RS 17” 8&9J to check clearance. Rear fits with no problems also no rubbing anywhere. Front tire is too close to coliover thread nut (no rubbing just to close for comfort) so I will add 3 mm spacer.

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Stan

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Thanks for info Stan. Still didn’t find it for other side but I also found them at W&N - in chrome. I might consider ordering missing piece there (and paint it black) since I have to order some parts anyway.
OK, but I do not think that the chrome piece is for an E9.
No worries
 

Ajay

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Wing sticker for fender grill was delivered and is now fitted for second time and this time I am happy with its position.

View attachment 86452
Working on exhaust tip to see how far out to position it

View attachment 86429View attachment 86430

Ventilation was not working so we take apart blower motor. Now it is working but it is making noise like it is rubbing against something can’t figure it where or it is maybe just out of balance

View attachment 86432View attachment 86431

Installed new wiper tank and ventilation cover but will have to take it off again to access the blower.

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Installed door cards

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Installed new gear boot and knob.

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Had the rods rebuilt and new sway bar rubber bushings were fitted.

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Installed BBS RS 17” 8&9J to check clearance. Rear fits with no problems also no rubbing anywhere. Front tire is too close to coliover thread nut (no rubbing just to close for comfort) so I will add 3 mm spacer.

View attachment 86446View attachment 86445


That car looks beautiful. Love the 17 inch RSs and the stance. I had the same issue with my 17 inch RSs, but swapped the inner barrels to 5 inch barrels, after that there was no issue with rubbing or clearance. I did that to avoid using spacers but it is a PITA to swap the barrels now after the wheels are done.
 

RTHLSS1

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@Ajay thanks.
I already swapped inner barrels I had 8.5J in the beginning but when I tried them on I had car lower than now so the coliover nut was above tire... I will drop the front end a bit and use 3 mm spacers.
 

Ajay

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@Ajay thanks.
I already swapped inner barrels I had 8.5J in the beginning but when I tried them on I had car lower than now so the coliover nut was above tire... I will drop the front end a bit and use 3 mm spacers.

Sounds good. I had good luck finding hub centric spacers on ebay and Amazon.
 

Morrisadam

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Dear RTHLSS1, I wanna say thank you for inspiring me to start restoring my car. Wonderfull project you had :)
I would love to ask some questions to you.
I saw that your color is Chamonix. May I ask what is your color code that you used on your car? I love how it turned out. Its not that creamy as the others I seen.
I love the wheels also. Are they aftermarket or all original? Where could I find or search for it?
Can I ask how did you made the CSL airdam? Is it fiberglass or metal?

Thanks

Adam
 

RTHLSS1

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Adam thanks, I am glad you like it ;) just this morning I was watching your thread

Yes, it was originally Chamonix but I decided to paint it "whiter" so officially it is not Chamonix anymore - If you will need I can provide you paint code.
Wheels are original BBS RS 17" 8" and 9J best option to search for good deal is https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/ but have in mind that not every wheel will be direct fit without rubbing. I had them apart measured everything and still a few mm in front were off after mounting tire.
Csl air dam is fiberglass I had it made but the guy who made them for me has mold now and it is cheaper to buy it online than to have it made for example:
https://www.jaymic.com/front-airdam-std-csl-j.html
 

RTHLSS1

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Removed rear muffler since it had hole in it and I was not able to buy stainless one already made so I simply replace it with stainless steel direct pipe. Will post sound clip later.

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Installed strut bar from W&N. It needed some modifications to fit properly and I put rubber under mounts to prevent any scratches – rust.

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Installed Nardi steering wheel

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And I dropped car for 2 cm in front and 1 cm in the back now it is ready to have wheel alignment done.

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Morrisadam

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Thanks for theese infos ;)
Please give me the paint code, I love it!
The original RS wheels are super expensive as I checked. I might just buy the RC 090 aka Style 5.
The Nardi wheel you used is 360 mm?
 

RTHLSS1

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No problem happy to help.
I will provide you paint code I have it written somewhere.

That was also my first option RC090 8J than I saw it on e9 in person and would only run them only staggered 8J & 9J in the back but was not able to find them... but I found nice set of 18" style 5 rc061/rc062 and had them restored. But I realize I would never be able to fit them on E9 with coliovers installed

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And 18" would be too much for e9 ... but with metal centers and thread nut conversion they would look really nice.

Nardi is 390 mm

https://www.driftworks.com/nardi-classic-steering-wheel-wood-with-polished-spokes-390mm-44391.html
 

RTHLSS1

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Wheel alignment was done

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Got arches cover from @KastelikClassicCar they are very nice fit I didn’t use no glue they fit perfect.

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Also fitted trunk parts I bought some time ago from CS Werke. They are nice but I think side panels are too thick and I will have problem when fitting wooden floor. Since original is only thin material glued to panels.

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My speedometer is going past 30 kmh so I replaced speedometer cable and nothing changed still 30 kmh is max that is shows. I tried and attached end of cable on drilling machine and it goes up to 60 km what is max rpm of drilling machine.

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Is it possible to replace speedometer drive in transmission and how is it removed?
 

RTHLSS1

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Assembled trunk

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Will try to repair tool box I am not in a mood paying 300€ for tool box with no tools and even if I would have complete set I heard it is advised not to put it inside due to weight…

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And had the car towed to have injector tested since it is not running good. Hope I get it back soon due to corona virus lockdown we are having.

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Meanwhile S14 will be taken apart to investigate

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RTHLSS1

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Pick it up from shop last week where I had injectors cleaned and valves adjusted

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I take probation plates to drive it home and test it out.

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Car was running fine for 2 days and then it started running rough again...so I will be driving it back to shop this week.

Did aprox 100 km in few days find out that one servo hose was leaking and passenger front caliper was leaking brake fluid. Replaced both servo hoses and resealed caliper again. Also since engine was running smooth I heard some noise under the hood and figured out that alternator is very loud - bad bearings. So I removed alternator and had it rebuilt.

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Fitted tool box with some reinforcement modification to brittle plastic.

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Speedometer was still only showing max 30-40km so we took it out and take it apart & put back together. Made quick test now it is working hope it stays that way.
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RTHLSS1

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Little update.

I got restored brass overflow tank from @Keshav . Super happy with the looks only small dent occurred during transport but will leave it in order not to crack new paint job.
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I waited to get plastic odometer gear and speedo bulbs delivered and replace them before I put speedo back in the car.

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Took out driver seat to investigate why it stopped reclining and repair it.

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And best part I went for a drive.
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RTHLSS1

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Long time no update…my e9 was running sometimes on 4 cylinders and up to 2 cylinders but then all of the sudden it ran OK...

That was the reason I installed new injectors (thanks to @Simufly for good deal) and new injector seals but same thing was happening. I thought there is problem in injector connectors or maybe wiring. I check wires and their condition is superb so I decided to only replace injector connectors which I got from Repro Parts.

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Since I was not sure if maybe there is something wrong with gasolin I replaced fuel filter again – it was clean but just to be sure.

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Sparks were in bad shape after only maybe 300 km driven so I replaced them as well. I also measured fuel pressure it was at is supposed to be.
Cold/Warm
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For finish we have set distributor point gap and check timing with stroboscope.
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After all that now it is running as is should I hope it stays this was.

One of my plastic chromed seat rail was broken. Since shape isn’t anything special I decided to have it made out of stainless steel.

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This week I have MOT keep your fingers crossed and then I will finally be able to get permanent license plates.
 
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