Would be easy if I had a lift... Starting to wonder if I should go there...
72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration
- Thread starter ScottAndrews
- Start date
-
- Tags
- restoration list
Well, THAT took a while. Battled decoupling the engine from the trans for quite while until I realized that there is a small plate forward of the flywheel that is attached to the bell housing. Amazing how strong two little 10 mm bolts can be! 
. Anyway, after I got that sorted, the engine pulled away from the trans and, other than discovering that I had to also remove the huge AC compressor to clear the radiator support, I got it out.
Used the front wheel off, hood on approach. Boy that entire process barely clears the hood and firewall! Definitely need some casters on my hoist though, since once the engine is on the hoist it is really hard to move it in any direction other than back. Ended up jacking up the front legs and rolling it on the rear casters and jacks.
I truly cannot wait to repeat this process in reverse with a newly painted car!! NOT!!!
. Anyway, after I got that sorted, the engine pulled away from the trans and, other than discovering that I had to also remove the huge AC compressor to clear the radiator support, I got it out.Used the front wheel off, hood on approach. Boy that entire process barely clears the hood and firewall! Definitely need some casters on my hoist though, since once the engine is on the hoist it is really hard to move it in any direction other than back. Ended up jacking up the front legs and rolling it on the rear casters and jacks.
I truly cannot wait to repeat this process in reverse with a newly painted car!! NOT!!!
Going back in is surprisingly easy with everything clean and no extra parts in the way. An extra set of hands will go a long way. Have some cold beer on hand and invite some friends over just like high school!
Ok. You’re on. Where do I send the plane ticket!!
Ugh..another day spent battling stuck bolts under the car. Today I got the trans out. That was easy other than some wrestling with the guibo bolts. The clutch slave cylinder is a rusty crusty mess. Definitely replacing that!
The rest of the driveline has been fairly uncooperative. I got the center bearing free easily enough, but the diff flange bolts are stuck tight...to the point of rounding off using a 12 point box wrench.. I also tried an end run around the diff by starting to remove the half shafts. Similar issues. I have about half of the bolts out from one side, but the others are stuck the same way.
Tomorrow I'll go get a 6 point wrench to see if maybe that holds...If not then the grinder will finish the job...
I absolutely have to get the shell empty and cleaned over the next 4 days so I can trailer it to the body shop. Otherwise I fear I may lose my spot, and end up waiting many more months.. Fortunately the entire interior, all glass, and 95% of the engine bay are clear, so it is just this damn driveline, the fuel tank, brake and fuel lines, and wiring...
The rest of the driveline has been fairly uncooperative. I got the center bearing free easily enough, but the diff flange bolts are stuck tight...to the point of rounding off using a 12 point box wrench.. I also tried an end run around the diff by starting to remove the half shafts. Similar issues. I have about half of the bolts out from one side, but the others are stuck the same way.
Tomorrow I'll go get a 6 point wrench to see if maybe that holds...If not then the grinder will finish the job...
I absolutely have to get the shell empty and cleaned over the next 4 days so I can trailer it to the body shop. Otherwise I fear I may lose my spot, and end up waiting many more months.. Fortunately the entire interior, all glass, and 95% of the engine bay are clear, so it is just this damn driveline, the fuel tank, brake and fuel lines, and wiring...
Funny anecdote... in 2007 I did a full body-off restoration of a 1972 Bronco for my younger son to drive in Highschool. We used a pulley contraption rigged up by my dad (he called it an "Egyptian hoist") to lift the body off the chassis. I made a dolly for the body shell from 2x4s and casters, and restored all of it (body, engine, chassis, etc.). When it was time to put the body back on, I was perplexed as to the easiest way to do it. I finally invited all my various car friends (mostly E9 and E24 guys) over for BBQ and beer (as I recall our late Arde was also there), and at one point TJ Noto suggested we do a "test lift". We did, and with 8-10 guys it was so light we just put it on the chassis, and went back to drinking beer.. Job Done..Ok. You’re on. Where do I send the plane ticket!!
Last edited:
Cut the nuts off
That's my plan!! I'd do it tonight but it's too damn cold over at the shop!
But wait! Based on @halboyles recent thread on floppy rods, are you SURE I should cut the nuts off my E9? I mean, won't that result in reduced "performance" down the road?
OK, so after several more hours than I had planned to spend, I got the evil differential and driveline out of the car.
I had to cut one bolt, but the others came free with some extra torque and busted knuckles. The worst part was after getting all the half shaft bolts out, I could not get the half shafts to budge. Thanks to @sfdon who responded to my text with a quick call, letting me know I had to put the car on its wheels and jack up the diff. Even with that done the CV joints seemed to be welded to the diff and axle flanges. I finally tried a 2 Lb sledge and a screwdriver. That created a small gap at the axle end which I managed to parlay into having the entire axle end free. Even after that removing the diff end took a couple of heavy blows with the hammer. The CV joints feel like they are made of petrified wood.. SUPER stiff, which I am sure added to the stubbornness of the units. I'll be replacing those with new ones..I seriously doubt that the half shafts or the diff have ever been out of the car.
I had to remove the diff with the driveline attached, since I was absolutely unable to get the prop shaft bolts loose. I was reluctant to cut this bolts because they seem to be permanently attached to the u-joint...so I'll ponder that another day.
The diff turns out to be a 3.64 LSD unit. The LSD clutches are still VERY stiff. I'll probably swap this for a 3.45 unit, so this one may come available as a used part. VERY dirty, but apparently in good condition.
So, home stretch. Off this weekend to go boating, so I'll wrap this up next week, and have the car ready for pickup by the body shop at the end of the month. Very excited to take that step.
I also was notified that my hides were shipped to CoupeKing, where I dropped off my interior a week or so ago. They will be re-covering the Scheel seats I bought from them last fall, and doing the doors, rear seats, rear arm rests and all the various dash pads, console, etc. They are already deep into the dash pads, and will start the seats and such when the hides arrive, probably early next week. So, that all should be done sometime the next 2-3 months.
Looks like I may be able to start re-assembly around July or so.
Amazing how fast a project like this can move when you have professional help!
I had to cut one bolt, but the others came free with some extra torque and busted knuckles. The worst part was after getting all the half shaft bolts out, I could not get the half shafts to budge. Thanks to @sfdon who responded to my text with a quick call, letting me know I had to put the car on its wheels and jack up the diff. Even with that done the CV joints seemed to be welded to the diff and axle flanges. I finally tried a 2 Lb sledge and a screwdriver. That created a small gap at the axle end which I managed to parlay into having the entire axle end free. Even after that removing the diff end took a couple of heavy blows with the hammer. The CV joints feel like they are made of petrified wood.. SUPER stiff, which I am sure added to the stubbornness of the units. I'll be replacing those with new ones..I seriously doubt that the half shafts or the diff have ever been out of the car.
I had to remove the diff with the driveline attached, since I was absolutely unable to get the prop shaft bolts loose. I was reluctant to cut this bolts because they seem to be permanently attached to the u-joint...so I'll ponder that another day.
The diff turns out to be a 3.64 LSD unit. The LSD clutches are still VERY stiff. I'll probably swap this for a 3.45 unit, so this one may come available as a used part. VERY dirty, but apparently in good condition.
So, home stretch. Off this weekend to go boating, so I'll wrap this up next week, and have the car ready for pickup by the body shop at the end of the month. Very excited to take that step.
I also was notified that my hides were shipped to CoupeKing, where I dropped off my interior a week or so ago. They will be re-covering the Scheel seats I bought from them last fall, and doing the doors, rear seats, rear arm rests and all the various dash pads, console, etc. They are already deep into the dash pads, and will start the seats and such when the hides arrive, probably early next week. So, that all should be done sometime the next 2-3 months.
Looks like I may be able to start re-assembly around July or so.
Amazing how fast a project like this can move when you have professional help!