Would be easy if I had a lift... Starting to wonder if I should go there...
72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration
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Well, THAT took a while. Battled decoupling the engine from the trans for quite while until I realized that there is a small plate forward of the flywheel that is attached to the bell housing. Amazing how strong two little 10 mm bolts can be! 
. Anyway, after I got that sorted, the engine pulled away from the trans and, other than discovering that I had to also remove the huge AC compressor to clear the radiator support, I got it out.
Used the front wheel off, hood on approach. Boy that entire process barely clears the hood and firewall! Definitely need some casters on my hoist though, since once the engine is on the hoist it is really hard to move it in any direction other than back. Ended up jacking up the front legs and rolling it on the rear casters and jacks.
I truly cannot wait to repeat this process in reverse with a newly painted car!! NOT!!!
. Anyway, after I got that sorted, the engine pulled away from the trans and, other than discovering that I had to also remove the huge AC compressor to clear the radiator support, I got it out.Used the front wheel off, hood on approach. Boy that entire process barely clears the hood and firewall! Definitely need some casters on my hoist though, since once the engine is on the hoist it is really hard to move it in any direction other than back. Ended up jacking up the front legs and rolling it on the rear casters and jacks.
I truly cannot wait to repeat this process in reverse with a newly painted car!! NOT!!!
Going back in is surprisingly easy with everything clean and no extra parts in the way. An extra set of hands will go a long way. Have some cold beer on hand and invite some friends over just like high school!
Ok. You’re on. Where do I send the plane ticket!!
Ugh..another day spent battling stuck bolts under the car. Today I got the trans out. That was easy other than some wrestling with the guibo bolts. The clutch slave cylinder is a rusty crusty mess. Definitely replacing that!
The rest of the driveline has been fairly uncooperative. I got the center bearing free easily enough, but the diff flange bolts are stuck tight...to the point of rounding off using a 12 point box wrench.. I also tried an end run around the diff by starting to remove the half shafts. Similar issues. I have about half of the bolts out from one side, but the others are stuck the same way.
Tomorrow I'll go get a 6 point wrench to see if maybe that holds...If not then the grinder will finish the job...
I absolutely have to get the shell empty and cleaned over the next 4 days so I can trailer it to the body shop. Otherwise I fear I may lose my spot, and end up waiting many more months.. Fortunately the entire interior, all glass, and 95% of the engine bay are clear, so it is just this damn driveline, the fuel tank, brake and fuel lines, and wiring...
The rest of the driveline has been fairly uncooperative. I got the center bearing free easily enough, but the diff flange bolts are stuck tight...to the point of rounding off using a 12 point box wrench.. I also tried an end run around the diff by starting to remove the half shafts. Similar issues. I have about half of the bolts out from one side, but the others are stuck the same way.
Tomorrow I'll go get a 6 point wrench to see if maybe that holds...If not then the grinder will finish the job...
I absolutely have to get the shell empty and cleaned over the next 4 days so I can trailer it to the body shop. Otherwise I fear I may lose my spot, and end up waiting many more months.. Fortunately the entire interior, all glass, and 95% of the engine bay are clear, so it is just this damn driveline, the fuel tank, brake and fuel lines, and wiring...
Funny anecdote... in 2007 I did a full body-off restoration of a 1972 Bronco for my younger son to drive in Highschool. We used a pulley contraption rigged up by my dad (he called it an "Egyptian hoist") to lift the body off the chassis. I made a dolly for the body shell from 2x4s and casters, and restored all of it (body, engine, chassis, etc.). When it was time to put the body back on, I was perplexed as to the easiest way to do it. I finally invited all my various car friends (mostly E9 and E24 guys) over for BBQ and beer (as I recall our late Arde was also there), and at one point TJ Noto suggested we do a "test lift". We did, and with 8-10 guys it was so light we just put it on the chassis, and went back to drinking beer.. Job Done..Ok. You’re on. Where do I send the plane ticket!!
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Cut the nuts off
That's my plan!! I'd do it tonight but it's too damn cold over at the shop!
But wait! Based on @halboyles recent thread on floppy rods, are you SURE I should cut the nuts off my E9? I mean, won't that result in reduced "performance" down the road?
OK, so after several more hours than I had planned to spend, I got the evil differential and driveline out of the car.
I had to cut one bolt, but the others came free with some extra torque and busted knuckles. The worst part was after getting all the half shaft bolts out, I could not get the half shafts to budge. Thanks to @sfdon who responded to my text with a quick call, letting me know I had to put the car on its wheels and jack up the diff. Even with that done the CV joints seemed to be welded to the diff and axle flanges. I finally tried a 2 Lb sledge and a screwdriver. That created a small gap at the axle end which I managed to parlay into having the entire axle end free. Even after that, removing the diff end took a couple of heavy blows with the hammer. The CV joints feel like they are made of petrified wood.. SUPER stiff, which I am sure added to the stubbornness of the units. I'll be replacing those with new ones..I seriously doubt that the half shafts or the diff have ever been out of the car.
I had to remove the diff with the driveline attached, since I was absolutely unable to get the prop shaft bolts loose. I was reluctant to cut these bolts because they seem to be permanently attached to the u-joint...so I'll ponder that another day.
The diff turns out to be a 3.64 LSD unit. The LSD clutches are still VERY stiff. I'll probably swap this for a 3.45 unit, so this one may come available as a used part. VERY dirty, but apparently in good condition.
So, home stretch. Off this weekend to go boating, so I'll wrap this up next week, and have the car ready for pickup by the body shop at the end of the month. Very excited to take that step.
I also was notified that my hides were shipped to CoupeKing, where I dropped off my interior a week or so ago. They will be re-covering the Scheel seats I bought from them last fall, and doing the doors, rear seats, rear arm rests and all the various dash pads, console, etc. They are already deep into the dash pads, and will start the seats and such when the hides arrive, probably early next week. So, that all should be done sometime the next 2-3 months.
Looks like I may be able to start re-assembly around July or so.
Amazing how fast a project like this can move when you have professional help!
I had to cut one bolt, but the others came free with some extra torque and busted knuckles. The worst part was after getting all the half shaft bolts out, I could not get the half shafts to budge. Thanks to @sfdon who responded to my text with a quick call, letting me know I had to put the car on its wheels and jack up the diff. Even with that done the CV joints seemed to be welded to the diff and axle flanges. I finally tried a 2 Lb sledge and a screwdriver. That created a small gap at the axle end which I managed to parlay into having the entire axle end free. Even after that, removing the diff end took a couple of heavy blows with the hammer. The CV joints feel like they are made of petrified wood.. SUPER stiff, which I am sure added to the stubbornness of the units. I'll be replacing those with new ones..I seriously doubt that the half shafts or the diff have ever been out of the car.
I had to remove the diff with the driveline attached, since I was absolutely unable to get the prop shaft bolts loose. I was reluctant to cut these bolts because they seem to be permanently attached to the u-joint...so I'll ponder that another day.
The diff turns out to be a 3.64 LSD unit. The LSD clutches are still VERY stiff. I'll probably swap this for a 3.45 unit, so this one may come available as a used part. VERY dirty, but apparently in good condition.
So, home stretch. Off this weekend to go boating, so I'll wrap this up next week, and have the car ready for pickup by the body shop at the end of the month. Very excited to take that step.
I also was notified that my hides were shipped to CoupeKing, where I dropped off my interior a week or so ago. They will be re-covering the Scheel seats I bought from them last fall, and doing the doors, rear seats, rear arm rests and all the various dash pads, console, etc. They are already deep into the dash pads, and will start the seats and such when the hides arrive, probably early next week. So, that all should be done sometime the next 2-3 months.
Looks like I may be able to start re-assembly around July or so.
Amazing how fast a project like this can move when you have professional help!
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Question for the hive mind...
I see under my car that there is a small cylindrical unit that has the rear brake lines attached to it. Located right up next to the driver's side of the differential. It seems to have some sort of screw adjustment on the back end.
Is this some sort of front/rear brake pressure bias adjustment?
TIA
Scott
I see under my car that there is a small cylindrical unit that has the rear brake lines attached to it. Located right up next to the driver's side of the differential. It seems to have some sort of screw adjustment on the back end.
Is this some sort of front/rear brake pressure bias adjustment?
TIA
Scott
Rear brake proportioning valve, set at the factory. The blue books show the adjustment process.
There are rebuild kits available for the valve, the easiest to find is for the Porsche 914, I believe.
i remember seeing them on pmb's website, as i had it listed in the FAQ top sources. i don't see it shown now. if anybody knows of the part number, please post it here. in the post below there is a link to buying the rebuild kit ... but when you do you get a 404 error message <not found>
they do sell the 914 regulator for 200 bucks
they do sell the 914 regulator for 200 bucks
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OK. Wife is sick, boat trip postponed, time to work on the car!
Spent some time cleaning up the shop after the saga of removing the trans, driveline, diff and exhaust. Gunk everywhere..
Then I removed the grilles, headlamps, side reflectors, front belt line trim, master cylinder, PS pump, reservoirs, roundel, etc.. Lots of small steps. And amazing how dirty the nooks and crannies of an old car can be!
Tomorrow I'll remove the rest of the belt line trim, the pedal box, booster, etc., to completely empty the engine bay, and pull the fuel tank, and brake calipers.
Currently puzzling over how to remove the front turn signals. I have the lenses off, and the screws out, backing plates out, etc. But the light fixtures themselves seem to be solidly attached. I am a bit reluctant to start jimmying them, since I certainly don't want to crack them, or bugger up the edges.
The current state of affairs. I felt I deserved some of the Amber Elixir after the past few days!
Spent some time cleaning up the shop after the saga of removing the trans, driveline, diff and exhaust. Gunk everywhere..
Then I removed the grilles, headlamps, side reflectors, front belt line trim, master cylinder, PS pump, reservoirs, roundel, etc.. Lots of small steps. And amazing how dirty the nooks and crannies of an old car can be!
Tomorrow I'll remove the rest of the belt line trim, the pedal box, booster, etc., to completely empty the engine bay, and pull the fuel tank, and brake calipers.
Currently puzzling over how to remove the front turn signals. I have the lenses off, and the screws out, backing plates out, etc. But the light fixtures themselves seem to be solidly attached. I am a bit reluctant to start jimmying them, since I certainly don't want to crack them, or bugger up the edges.
The current state of affairs. I felt I deserved some of the Amber Elixir after the past few days!
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Looking good! I feel like you and I are on similar trajectories with slightly different endpoints - you’re doing whole car, I just did engine bay, but yes, removing everything is a bit of a task. Regarding turn signals, if you’ve removed the screws holding the backing onto the car that should be it. I removed mine to replace one of the rubber surrounds. Perhaps your rubber has just gotten old and sticky and is holding it on there?
Bah, I'm way out of date there. Looks like PMB was perhaps the last to stock the kits for sale. I've not found any others yet online. But PMB does still offer to refurbish the 914 brake proportioning valve for $199 instead of selling the rebuild kit for $59. Previous posters have mentioned that the BMW version is slightly longer and required a little 'tape' modification of the tool to insert the gaskets, but was virtually the same otherwise. I suppose it would be prudent to check that PMB will rebuild your BMW version before sending it off. Here's the link for the repair service.
Isn’t this part from Ireland Engineering the same item? Looks cheaper than even a rebuild as long as you’re ok with not OEM.
That appears to be a proportioning valve, which PMB explains produces a constant proportional reduction in force to the rear at all pressures while the OEM item allows full current pressure of the system to pass until a preset limit is reached beyond which the pressure does not increase because that was determined to be dangerous.Isn’t this part from Ireland Engineering the same item? Looks cheaper than even a rebuild as long as you’re ok with not OEM.
Yes, it could work reasonably well, once calibrated for your car, but isn't as sophisticated as the OEM version.