b35 Install Tomorrow

HB Chris

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Question for the air cleaner experts: the AFM mounts to a rail with three mounts and this sits on valve cover with two large rubber feet. The bottom of the air box sits on this long rail. I recall two speed clips on this but my box came with two M6 very short bolts each with a rubber foot, this is sitting on the AFM rail right now, not attached to anything. A speed clip would use a coarse screw, seems counter intuitive.

I am positioning this so I can drill a hole in fender for the outer air box mount.

Edit: Figured it out, like an e28 it uses two M6 speed clips to secure it to the AFM rail. Don't know why my box had rubber feet but it looks like they were once bushings with studs on each end from another application.

The next challenge, try to match the olive grey color of a D-jet air box. I assume it's the same as a carb air box.
 
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HB Chris

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Fuel return line is in, it's from a 74, never knew a carbed coupe had a return line but 74 did. Used e28 mount/clips to secure to underside, drilled hole in trunk compartment to run a short fixed pipe and then into tank area. Just need to get my pump back after lengthening then I'll fire it up next week, can't wait.
 

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Peter Coomaraswamy

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Really clean install, looks great, sure it's tough not driving her for another few days though.

Question(s), is that the original undercoating? if so, how did you get it that clean? If not, what did you use- it looks incredibly "stock". ? Thanks
 
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rsporsche

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no idea if its original or not, but a few years ago Chris had the underside of his car detailed !
 

HB Chris

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We cleaned and then shot Wurth grey undercoat on it which matched the original look. I didn't get dirty when under the coupe installing the fuel lines, how often can one say that?

:razz:
 

adawil2002

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We cleaned and then shot Wurth grey undercoat on it which matched the original look. I didn't get dirty when under the coupe installing the fuel lines, how often can one say that?

:razz:


Your car is perpetually clean so your white lab coat doesn't get dirty. :wink:
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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Cool, I think I will try same; is the Wurth stuff readily available? and about how much do you need to do the underside? Sorry for all the questions, the first e9 was fairly easy because I did not (and still don't) care about originality, but the Polaris one has to be done correctly and as you know that is allot harder. A fair mechanic with some patience can rebuild one of these, restoring one to original-or thereabouts- is much more difficult, it will probably take me twice as long as the first one and that was something I was not anticipating.

Again, thanks
 

HB Chris

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I was told the Wurth grey may not be available, not sure. Dr. Detail in Costa Mesa shot it, gun or spray can, again I don't know. I was going to do it but tore the tendon in right ring finger getting down on the garage floor to scrape off the old stuff, known as mallet finger, so I gave up.
 

HB Chris

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Can't get it below 1750 RPM, logical causes are vacuum leaks and timing too advanced. Can't find any leaks though. The dizzy is staked, I can retard it enough to die. Also, pesky oil leak in front timing cover, not where it joins head in typical spot, will deal with that later. Swapped in a new AFM, no change, and a used ECU too, didn't expect that to do anything and it didn't. I will attack it again tomorrow, I'm just thrilled it runs, has oil pressure, no fuel leaks, etc, all my biggest worries.
 

Nicad

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Congratulations Chris! Good luck getting it to settle down.
 

Sven

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Chris, one test you could try that would tell you if it is a "too much air problem" is to disconnect the hose between the TB and idle valve. Plug the port on the TB with something, then have someone start the engine while you use a flat piece of metal to control the amount of air that gets to the idle valve (a bit more adjustable than using your thumb). You will find that with a small enough piece you can slide it open and closed across the hose end opening to adjust your idle speed. If you are able to bring the idle down using this method then there may be an issue with the idle valve.

Plan B - a case of wine and a call to Don.
 

Peter Coomaraswamy

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Wish I could contribute a little but I have no knowledge of FI, I can't even help in the wine department but I will give Don fair warning in that when I finish my current projects I'm driving my coupe to his shop for a complete powertrain upgrade.
 

m5bb

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Also, pesky oil leak in front timing cover, not where it joins head in typical spot, will deal with that later.

Congrats Chris, always a good day when they start and have oil pressure.

Geez, tell me about the oil leaks.
I almost used something more than the gasket on the front timing cover.
I was so careful too as I hear about leaks all the time.

Try what Sven says. Good idea.

Gary
 

Sven

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What ICV are you using? The original D-jet thing, or the newer Bosch 3 wire valve that came on the b35's?

I would check both the wiring and movement of the valve first before replacing it. If it is the newer 3-wire unit. Check that the center pin is getting 12v. The two outer pins are controlling the opposing motors via ground that make this thing open and close.

The other thing that occurred to me is that TPS is not a 0-100% type sensor but has several discreet positions, one of which is idle. If this is not sending the idle position signal to the ECU then maybe the ECU is not engaging the idle valve. I believe you should be able to hear a light "click" sound from the TPS when the throttle returns to the closed position. Again, Motronic 1.3 is not my forte.
 
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