Fixing that little rust spot...

eriknetherlands

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Thanks for the motivation guys, good to hear that it was/is a good read.

It's been since November since last update. I need to share something...It went to this in the meantime.

I finished welding and smoothing the left rear floor. My welding is getting better now, it's much smoother then the right side...if you slide your fingers over it the seam is hardly noticeable.

As an in between job I also cleaned out the rust between the spring mount and the wheel well in the left rear wheel arch. (pic 123720) It was not too bad, I expected more rust to come out from under it, and perhaps some pinholes into the wheelwell, but it was just surface rust. Not sure if it was worth the effort, but it is all clean again now. sandblasted & welded back in and sealed with seam sealer.

With the left rear floor in place, I tackled the rear subframe mounting point and the whole corner around it as well. It needed everything new; wheel well section, floor section & sill section. the only thing that was still OK was the thick reinforcement itself that holds the ~20*200 mm thick/long knurled bolt; I just sandblasted it and had it zinc coated.

End corner of the inner sill layer was replaced earlier (part of it covered already in post # 134), and I included an extra flange on it, extending it to follow the wheel well, so it ties in better (stronger) to the rear subframe mounting point . You can see it spotwelded in pic ..232036; it's the 'flag shaped' yellow zinc part sticking out towards the left. It will be directly plug welded to the thick reinforcement plate later on, giving it a lot more stability: Originally this reinforcement is welded to the floor (0.8mm), the wheel well (0.8mm) and the sill (2.0mm). Now it has this additional flange of 2.5 mm to hold on to, and you can't see it from the outside!

You can also see that I have omitted a rust source; the inner sill originally has a 20mm round holes for wax injection. Some of them are located on the interior side of the floor, but the most rearward point is actually on the bottom side. The white caps tend to fall out, and then it is a direct water entry point, close to a wheel. Not a good thing. So I choose to delete the hole, and made a new one that allows wax insertion from under the rear seat. That new hole is visible in 232036; it's located in the curved piece. From there it continues down through all the stacked layers, allowing wax to penetrate everywhere. (Better pic in next post, the one with the green line)
 

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eriknetherlands

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And reinforcement + floor welded in and smoothed out.

I choose to first spotweld the reinforcement to the little new floor section, and then weld the assembly into the car. This way I could duplicate the original spotwelds on the reinforcement plate, as my spot welder only has short arms and cannot reach over the sill.

pic 235614 showing the line of the three holes that allow wax injection from under the rear seat.
152853 shows the floor section + the reinforcement spotwelded together. I needed to install these parts over and over again to make sure they are exactly aligned in the body prior to fixing it in position with these welds. Cleco's are very heplfull, and screws where more pulling force is needed to sandwich the layers tightly.
223433 in-out times 100
113509 spotwelded floor to wheel arch (as original). The welds on the floor still needed some improvement, some unevenness and holes were still present and needed to be filled & smoothed out
113532 seams of the floor section welded (from both sides) and smoothed out.
233929 view from underside; notice that the sill still only has one layer; the intermediate and outer are not even on yet.
235702 All finished.

From a whole rusted corner to this took me about 150 hours over 3 months...
 

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autokunst

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Erik, it is always a treat to see your updates. Stellar work as usual. Thank you for documenting this so well. It will be a road map for my future. :)
 

eriknetherlands

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Last quarter of the floor!

having done 3 parts, the forth is now due. For this, it not only needed the floor itself, but also some sections of adjacent panels needed to be replaced:
- the accelerator mount and the floor on which it is welded.
- the firewall -corner with the floor & A-pillar. A notorious rust trap...

I tackled it as follows;
231050 Strip front floor by drilling out the welds, taking care not to damage the frame rails. The orange bar is welded in to later exactly relocate the seat frame parts. In some places I used a 1/2 inch wide belt sander to grind the welds out-it's becoming my favorite tool !
230758 Floor out. Note the large patch; not my style of repairing things, but it saved the floor from getting worse.
231051 Inner frame rail-> I think this shows the power of wax injection: there is hardly any surface rust inside!
231124 Cut out corroded corner of firewall
232806 new piece formed and trial fitted.
231004 introduced a tension element to keep the single sill layer at a correct position relative to the Frame rails. With the floor out, the single remaining sill layer moved outwards by ~15 mm. This shows the importance to measure stuff (and sometimes drill pilot holes for CLECO's) before dissecting panels.
232521 Welded in and cleaned and smoothed welds
210734 Accelerator pedal stop. Rust underneath, so must come out.
211639 Disassembled
111824 Bracket made to relocate the pedal mount in the same location, after replacing the floor below it.
 

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eriknetherlands

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- continued from above.-

235625 Replace floor under accelerator mount
235644 Relocate new mount (sourced and made by CSL Garage, Budapest/ Miklos is a real great guy to deal with)
132722 Measure & measure & measure ....
224145 made 2 new depressions that are missing in the Walloth and Neesch front floor part. (as are the ribs, the curve up to the firewall, and the curve up to the tunnel...) (detailed description of the tools and process some 60 post earlier...)
224200 Mark and locate
225902 Pressed and drilled
231235 Plug trial fitted
003908 All cleaned prior to welding
004305 One fine, shiny frame rail !
233046 Relocated floor feature (needed to be shifted ~3 mm sideways, as the rib spacing of the W&N parts does not match the original rib spacing. As I already welded in the rear floor, these ribs did not line up with the rear floor anymore. Its much easier to relocate this little piece then 're-rib' the whole rear floor )
223810 new tabs fitted on the inner A-pillar. Could be spotwelded now as I still had access while the floor is out.
224021 Temporarily fitted the intermediate sill and A-Pillar to check floor fitment.
215531 Final installed front floor.

Quite some steps are missing, but I dropped my phone, and that caused two things:
no possibility to make pictures.
no distractions anymore so fully dedicated e9 evenings-> lots of progress in 1 week!
 

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eriknetherlands

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And all nicely sealed with a thick flowing, remaining soft, german quality (30+ years on sea based wind mills) paint, called Brantho Corrux 3 in 1, drowned all gaps and crevices with a syringe. I gave it two passes allowing it to dry two days in between.
 

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eriknetherlands

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After sealing the seams with the Brantho Korrux, the seam sealer was next in line.

On the inside of the sill originally there is this type of rubbery putty; Seam sealer. I tried to copy it as best as I could.
Here's some pics of the original putty in my car. (difficult to see, bad phone in 2015, I'm sorry) Hans and Fritz did not give it too much effort to get it straight in ~May '73. You can just make out that it has been quite hastely applied, and then brushed over.

First I did some trials on a plate with different brushes to get the correct structure. A harder brush with plastic strands gave the best reproduction.
Over the white paint came a first layer that I pushed in with a brush to make sure it has good adhesion. A day later I did the second layer, sloppy as possible, which is a bit difficult for me...
 

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Bejoe16

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Unbelievable detail! Makes me want to keep my CSi shell even though I’ll never have time to get to it. Looking forward to every update.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

milwaukeesk

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I have so much respect for the job you have undertaken, the level of effort and attention to detail. Keep it up. When all is said and done one can only assume that your car will be incredible and what a story to tell!
 

eriknetherlands

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It's been a while since I've posted updates in this thread, but work continued anyway. I did bug the forum with questions in separate threads, and received many grateful answers that allowed me to continue.

Let see if i can get this thread up to the point where I'm now.

In the last posts I told about my floor repairs. The cabin floor is mostly finished now, just the stuff that is mounted *on* the floor needs to go back.

235127, 234941 and 234933: Reweld the seat bases to the floor. they were chopped out, fixed up and zinced. Before removing them i devised a system to relocate the parts; the orange steel tube had some pins that allowed me to stuff the front edge of the base under & against it. It also doubled as a stiffener to make sure my sill did not move relative to the tunnel. I also used some Cleco's; they are wonderful.

211649, 211722 and 211902 show the coating inside the seat base, where it would be hard to reach later.
pic 233014 and 001539 welded and painted, inside and outside. I use a nice little spray can nozzle to get the paint in place it will not creep into by itself.

also a pic to check that all is well: I installed the seat rail and the seat. They slide, but not effortless. Some tuning may be needed....
 

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eriknetherlands

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Next in was the plate going left to right under the rear seats.
It had some rust damage, so that needed to be fixed first.

pic 212802, 213352. Fixed a curved edge that was rusted out from below. Edge replaced, and all welded in.
180616 Spot welded the connections. I needed to use a piece of wood to bend the plate in place prior to spot welding it, as it tended to warp.

234216 In the point where it meets the rear wheel reinforcement, I did not want to weld, as it would bake off the rust protection (paint) inside the sill construction. So I choose to glue it in there with Teroson EP5055 structural Epoxy, the black stuff.
As you can cover large area's with it, it can be made to have similar rigidity compared a few spotwelds.
 

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eriknetherlands

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and then I started looking at this....
 

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eriknetherlands

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Long overdue update, but as I made this nice picture today, I thought it would be good to post it here (as well).

Since the above post I've replaced the rust in the spare tire panel. To do this I've taken it out completely.
Also welded in new rear lower valance left and right, and the lower tail panel.

Eventhough this thread actually started with some practice welding on the fuel tank panel, I chopped out what I made in 2015 and replaced it with a Walloth part.

All was electroplated before welding them in, including the towing hook and the pin inside the spare tire wheel well.
 

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Bmachine

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Incredible work there Erik! This is a humbling reminder to those who have been lucky to find a dry car that they are real exceptions. Your dedication and craftsmanship is a real inspiration!
 

eriknetherlands

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So, in the meantime I've turned my car around in my tiny garage, as I am planning to remove the front fenders. As I will be dong a full bare shell repaint, the whole front needs to be emptied.
I've disassembled it up to the point where I now only have the engine, oil filter, steering box and the suspension left inside the car. the wiring loom is all a big pile under the fuse box. I did not yet have the courage to disconnect the wires to be able to carry the harness out; i want to document which connector goes where before I disconnect them from the junction box.

In my process I dismantle most things up to the point of last nut and bolt (really). My car always smelled like gas, and had a horrible mileage; about half what it should be.
So out with the carbs, and disassemble. Boy do they have a lot of parts!

Some interesting observations while disassembling my front carb:
- Missing one screw at the bottom of the carb: 4 screws should hold the bottom plate with the coolant hoses. Mine was only attached with 3. It did not leak any coolant however.
In general I found that the screw are quite loose on most joints of the carb. A 3yr old would have been strong enough to take mine apart. @deQuincey also noted a lost bolt a few weeks ago; mine wasn't any different. To reduce chance of loosing bolts, I plan to re-torque them after 1000 km or so. For other carb owners I'd advise to check your Nm's.
20211111_221837.jpg


- as the head of my engine has a 1980's casting date, it obviously has been replaced. However the intake runners are still the original 1973 parts. As a result the intake ports do not match to the runners. The gasket couldn't close that gap, literally. It must have drawn in air through the bolt holes into the cilinders; @sfdon already mentioned that it probably was difficult to hold an idle, and indeed the engine would stall when still cold and trying to idle.
20211112_004632.jpg


- a broken plastic link. Luckily i have 6 partial carbs to use for spares, but the first two i pulled of them were broken as well. See the small split along the length on the flat part? it still held fine despite the crack, but it's now replaced anyway.
20211111_223236.jpg
20211116_134152.jpg


- the jet section is distorted. The side facing the front window has sagged about 0,8 mm downward (measured after flattening it slightly to remove gasket remains). It's even obvious just eyeballing it; see picture. I'll have to replace it with one from my parts stash (I hope not too many variants exist of the jet section)
20211112_000339.jpg
20211119_174327.jpg


- it still has SOLEX branded gaskets (original from factory?)
20211112_001944.jpg


- The needle valve is not spring loaded as it should be (likely a non BMW replacement, although it does read "SOLEX 2"), and it has a 1 mm shim instead of the 2 mm prescribed in tech docs. Again, need to scavenge my parts pile.

20211112_150558.jpg


Sooo many little parts! Remember, this is only 1 carb...
20211112_174828.jpg
20211112_174900.jpg
 
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Belgiumbarry

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dammit Erik, what are you gonne do with that car once it is finished ? Put it in a museum ? i don't expect you will be driving it , no ?
 
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