Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
Stephen, i will put mine there also as a example "before" and Erik's car as "after" .
Fixing that little rust spot...
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It's going to be a long wait, but it's going to shine.....
Also it's going to drive, Like a little kid.
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
sorry guys , this is "local" news.... sad news !
Erik , i just see that the Walonie government ( so the south part of Belgium , French speaking ) put a hold on oldtimer registration per 1/1/2022..... only those with a O license plate can continue.... but of course it will be more difficult to sell that car as the buyer can't get anymore a "cheap" annual tax..... !
PS in Belgium a car has to be 30 years old to be licensed as oldtimer. That profits a fix annual tax.... younger cars pay according cc/HP/CO etc...
So the new rules will only make our hobby a lot more expensive.... and officials richer.
Erik , i just see that the Walonie government ( so the south part of Belgium , French speaking ) put a hold on oldtimer registration per 1/1/2022..... only those with a O license plate can continue.... but of course it will be more difficult to sell that car as the buyer can't get anymore a "cheap" annual tax..... !
PS in Belgium a car has to be 30 years old to be licensed as oldtimer. That profits a fix annual tax.... younger cars pay according cc/HP/CO etc...
So the new rules will only make our hobby a lot more expensive.... and officials richer.
When you say “a lot more expensive“ what do you mean exactly? Like how much would one pay in January versus in December for the same car?
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
the difference is 35€ versus 600€.
But OK, we , with O plates , can continue.
But OK, we , with O plates , can continue.
3.....2....1....KABOOOM!
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I did actually count them, there are 245 parts in a '73 European delivered front carb.
I did not count the parts that i could not seperate, mostly press fittings.
I did not count the parts that i could not seperate, mostly press fittings.
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Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
omg.... what do i love my Webers..... 
Sand the pieces flush on a flat piece of granite or similar to remove any warpage
It's going to need more then that I fear; of the 8 carbs i have, i think 6 of them all have warpage on the same part, in the same corner, in the same direction.
I will have to measure them, but the warpage looks like between 1 and 1,5 mm on every one. No way i can sand that "out".
Not really in chronological order, but some images from the 2021 work that I had not documented yet here:
- On top of spotwelding , I glued the rear panels with 2K Structural Epoxy for a water tight seal+ additional strength. :
- spot welding the rear spare tire wheel and fuel tank panel.
- made extension arms for my spotwelder to be able to weld the rear valance / apron and rear fenders to the floor sections:
finishing the welding with some strip welds like the original and treated all fresh welds with a nice paint layer.
all painted up, making sure all spaces between panels are filled:
and sealed it all up, matching original seal location, width and texture:
I sealed the edge to the fender in 3 passes after welding:
First I filled it with 2K Epoxy paint: (never was in there so deep originally)
and a sealing layer just as original.
- On top of spotwelding , I glued the rear panels with 2K Structural Epoxy for a water tight seal+ additional strength. :
- spot welding the rear spare tire wheel and fuel tank panel.
- made extension arms for my spotwelder to be able to weld the rear valance / apron and rear fenders to the floor sections:
finishing the welding with some strip welds like the original and treated all fresh welds with a nice paint layer.
all painted up, making sure all spaces between panels are filled:
and sealed it all up, matching original seal location, width and texture:
I sealed the edge to the fender in 3 passes after welding:
First I filled it with 2K Epoxy paint: (never was in there so deep originally)
and a sealing layer just as original.
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Prepared the fuel tank panel ahead of welding it in: added wiring harness tabs (self fabricated) and the bumper mounts. Note the 3 mm holes i drilled prior to removing the bumper brackets for exact repositioning.
reduced the hole for my antena; it was always leaking as the hole was ~3 mm wider as the plastic foot of the antena could effectively cover. I welded in an replacement plate, making sure it was set flush. I used a copper sheet at the back to aid in welding.
reduced the hole for my antena; it was always leaking as the hole was ~3 mm wider as the plastic foot of the antena could effectively cover. I welded in an replacement plate, making sure it was set flush. I used a copper sheet at the back to aid in welding.
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Needed to fix a lot of corners of the spare tire wheel well before I could get it zinc coated and being able to weld it back in:
some patches to be made
new edge:
new corner:
and 2 bits on the wheel well also:
After fixing the steel part, it was time to install the fresh parts.
New brackets mounted on the underside of the spare tire panel for the NOS muffler that I found:
and some brackets on the top side: a few tabs for the wiring harness, the rear bumper mount, the pin for the spare wheel and the funny bracket that can only be meant to prevent the jack from damaging the wiring harness. Last item was the towing hooks that also required my newly made spot welder's extension arms.
not chronological, but all got zinc plated for that extra rust protection - I don't want to worry driving it when it's finished.
I also added a reinforcement for the Differential mounting: the body tends to develop cracks around the bolt holes where the Diff mounts. As I did not take the diff mount part off the body, best I could do is adding stiffness close to it, hoping that it would help. I simply doubled up on the plate, adding a 1,5 mm zinced steel plate. Afterwards I filled the space in between capillary with paint as such double layers are a real rust trap if not cared for well, especially being right behind the wheels.
some patches to be made
new edge:
new corner:
and 2 bits on the wheel well also:
After fixing the steel part, it was time to install the fresh parts.
New brackets mounted on the underside of the spare tire panel for the NOS muffler that I found:
and some brackets on the top side: a few tabs for the wiring harness, the rear bumper mount, the pin for the spare wheel and the funny bracket that can only be meant to prevent the jack from damaging the wiring harness. Last item was the towing hooks that also required my newly made spot welder's extension arms.
not chronological, but all got zinc plated for that extra rust protection - I don't want to worry driving it when it's finished.
I also added a reinforcement for the Differential mounting: the body tends to develop cracks around the bolt holes where the Diff mounts. As I did not take the diff mount part off the body, best I could do is adding stiffness close to it, hoping that it would help. I simply doubled up on the plate, adding a 1,5 mm zinced steel plate. Afterwards I filled the space in between capillary with paint as such double layers are a real rust trap if not cared for well, especially being right behind the wheels.
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It is very humbling to see such Incredible work. Congratulations Erik!
Thanks @Bmachine. Always good to hear people appreciate it.
Not sure if I shared this one, but I hand made some tabs for the wiring harness in 2017. As i needed a lot more, I turned new dies for my bead roller on the lathe at a friend. This way I could make 25 of them in an evening, plus make use of the class in tech highschool on lathe basics that I took in 1998....
Not sure if I shared this one, but I hand made some tabs for the wiring harness in 2017. As i needed a lot more, I turned new dies for my bead roller on the lathe at a friend. This way I could make 25 of them in an evening, plus make use of the class in tech highschool on lathe basics that I took in 1998....
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extremely impressive attention to detail and patience. Bravo!
Beautiful work Erik. Thanks for sharing and the inspiration.
Impressive and inspiring, as usual, Erik. How do you fend off the local car restoration enthusiasts that need a particular NLA part fabricated?
Hello, I had the same problem with my cars I have 2 E9 I was changing the hand break cable and I try to use the good cable from one to other car but didn't work since there was deferent one from the other I figure out maybe they upgrade the parts one car is 71 and the other is 73 that's why but now I see other people having same problem