My Alpina B2 powered 3.0CS

JamesE30

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A few pics of some parts going back together

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JamesE30

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New timing chain cover arrived from Wallothnesh. Didn’t take much to get it perfect.

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And the replacement crank pulley/vibration dampener arrived. This time will be painted not powdercoated!

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JamesE30

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Even though the cover was brand new it had kind of a dull finish compared to the rest of my aluminium parts. So o quickly had it beadblasted to match. Looks great :)

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Willem Tell

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Even though the cover was brand new it had kind of a dull finish compared to the rest of my aluminium parts. So o quickly had it beadblasted to match. Looks great
If you follow Zinz's lead, you'll find that Penetrol or in my case in Europe Owaldöl penetrating oil applied to these new raw aluminum surfaces provides a great anti-oxidation layer and a light shine as if they had been clear powder-coated.
I am spraying it inside the wheel wells and inside the front bodywork where I don't want wax to show. It naturally creeps into all of the crevasses and forms a glassy water-proof protective layer.
 

JamesE30

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If you follow Zinz's lead, you'll find that Penetrol or in my case in Europe Owaldöl penetrating oil applied to these new raw aluminum surfaces provides a great anti-oxidation layer and a light shine as if they had been clear powder-coated.
I am spraying it inside the wheel wells and inside the front bodywork where I don't want wax to show. It naturally creeps into all of the crevasses and forms a glassy water-proof protective layer.

That’s awesome, thanks for the recommendation! I was looking for a solution for that exact issue. I considered something like ACF-50 I read about some Motorcycle guys using. Is Owaldöl a brand name? I’ll definitely give it a try but I can’t seem to find it?
 

Willem Tell

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That’s awesome, thanks for the recommendation! I was looking for a solution for that exact issue. I considered something like ACF-50 I read about some Motorcycle guys using. Is Owaldöl a brand name? I’ll definitely give it a try but I can’t seem to find it?
I was close.... look for Owatrol Öl.. .
https://www.owatrol-kontor.de/owatrol-owatrol-oel-produktvorstellung
https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/owatrol-oil/
Owatrol is great for protecting the nice, clean aluminum pieces from oxidation. Spray or paint it on, wait, and wipe it off with a microfiber cloth. (I have sprayed it on and just left it as is on the engine pan where it gets more weather. It makes it look like it is powder-coated.
I have also treated the back side of my Lokari fenders prior to installation. I will treat the wheel-facing side once I bang them into place.
I will also spray the insides of the wheel wells before I mount the Lokaris.

Here is a good article on rust inhibitors.
https://www.autobild.de/artikel/rostschutzmittel-im-test-35817.html

I don't use Owatrol exactly as described in the article. For that kind of rust-proofing, clean steel, primer, paint, and wax. I am using Bilt Hamber Dynax S50: https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments
It is black, so it requires a bit of cleanup after it has run out of the recesses.
 

JamesE30

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I was close.... look for Owatrol Öl.. .
https://www.owatrol-kontor.de/owatrol-owatrol-oel-produktvorstellung
https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/owatrol-oil/
Owatrol is great for protecting the nice, clean aluminum pieces from oxidation. Spray or paint it on, wait, and wipe it off with a microfiber cloth. (I have sprayed it on and just left it as is on the engine pan where it gets more weather. It makes it look like it is powder-coated.
I have also treated the back side of my Lokari fenders prior to installation. I will treat the wheel-facing side once I bang them into place.
I will also spray the insides of the wheel wells before I mount the Lokaris.

Here is a good article on rust inhibitors.
https://www.autobild.de/artikel/rostschutzmittel-im-test-35817.html

I don't use Owatrol exactly as described in the article. For that kind of rust-proofing, clean steel, primer, paint, and wax. I am using Bilt Hamber Dynax S50: https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments
It is black, so it requires a bit of cleanup after it has run out of the recesses.

Thabks, I’ll check it out. Definitely would like to put something on to protect it a bit.

Yesterday I managed to get a bit more done on the engine.

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JamesE30

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Well I’ve been away for work abroad since December, but while I’ve been away so has the e9 at the coach builder!
Stripping is well under way, and the car is finally off to get sandblasted!

Very excited to see this thing getting stripped down!

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Keshav

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Hi James,
Welcome back...... hope you had a good winter skiing season.
Thought I’d mention to be very careful with sand blasting. The metal is very apt to warping so have your guys be very careful with the outer panels, specially the roof, trunk amd bootlid.
Cheers
Keshav
 

JamesE30

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So far no real bad surprises, most things we found we were already expecting and have already sourced replacement sheet metal for.

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Some nasty repairs uncovered. New sheet metal is awaiting :D

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Right rear sill is toast

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Left sil has been poorly repaired before

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Read for sand blasting!
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JamesE30

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Hi James,
Welcome back...... hope you had a good winter skiing season.
Thought I’d mention to be very careful with sand blasting. The metal is very apt to warping so have your guys be very careful with the outer panels, specially the roof, trunk amd bootlid.
Cheers
Keshav

Im not back in Germany for another month or two, but the car is still getting worked on which is great!

Thanks for the advice, I believe the plan is to chemically dip all loose panels, and only blast the chassis for that reason. Also why we wanted to remove as much as possible before blasting so we didn’t have to go too abrasive with the media.

The roof has had an aftermarket sunroof hacked in, and I have a replacement (non sunroof) roof skin ready to go on. So that will be stripped separately as well :)


Very nice mate.
How many different colours has it been?

Thanks! It was originally Taiga green and repainted a metallic blue in about 1988. That’s it. I actually tracked down the owner who “restored” the car in the 80’s and got a lot of interesting information from him!
The work wasn’t great but you have to remember these cars weren’t worth much back then (he bought it for 4.5k marks in 87).
He was very sad to sell the car due to financial troubles after the work he had started on it, so he was quite excited to hear from me randomly 30 years later that the car is getting a new lease on life!
He even discussed the possibility to come and meet me and see the car again.
 
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JamesE30

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In other exciting news, while I was away my coil overs were finished!
These are custom built by H&R and Tüv certified for road legal installation in Germany!

For me the e9 is one of the most beautiful cars ever made, but like all cars stance and proportion can change everything. I originally planned to use Bilstein struts and find some lowering springs but could find no springs suitable or legal, this was not the best solution for me. With these height adjustable coilovers I can be sure the car will be the exact height to my liking as well has handeling better than any original e9 suspension system. Very excited!

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Bmachine

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These are custom built by H&R and Tüv certified for road legal installation in Germany!

I originally planned to use Bilstein struts and find some lowering springs but could find no springs suitable or legal,
The springs have to be "legal"? How do they check that?
I understand the basic idea to make things safe but, here in the US where there are basically no regulations on most car mods except emission controls, I have never heard of any accident caused by car springs...
 

Keshav

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The springs have to be "legal"? How do they check that

The law demands that any and every part which is not original to the car (not implying the correct spares/ replacements) has to be, 1. a EU approved part, 2. has to be specifically approved for that particular model car to which it’s being applied to.
The examples go as far as rims, tyre sizes, suspension, exhausts, brakes, gear box, steering wheels, spoilers and dozens more..... basically any and everything which wasn’t originally on that particular model car.

When we go for the roadworthy inspection every 2 year, the inspectors will require documentation of all the added/ improved parts which have been, prior to the inspection, inspected and added to your cars documents thus making the car officially roadworthy. Modern suspensions, brake calipers, exhausts, Steering wheels are easily noticible and can cause serious challenges if not pre approved like the springs above.
And if you have H/ historic plates, then none of the above apply since modern parts dont adher to the H rules of authenticity.

If during inspection they discover undocumented add ons, you are given so many days to rechange or come up with the approvals. Till such time, you are considered roadworthy on borrowed time!
And if all the changes go undetected because the young inspectors have no idea of what should be period correct and you are involved in an accident later on, you chance to loose all coverage upon detection of non approved parts making the car road unworthy. And that has some very serious implications since your insurance will not cover you and ask for reimbursement of all expense involved and to the person with whom the collision took place, regardless of whose fault it was for driving an unroadworthy car (due to unapproved parts). A Cop can pull you over at any time and all the addons have to be noted in your documents which you have to have with you..... if he finds the exhaust too loud and it exceeds the decibel stated in your documents, if the suspension looks too modern for your car etc etc, he can impound it on the spot!
Excuse the long and insufficient explanation.
 

Bmachine

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Excellent explanation actually.

I am usually in favor of anything that improves safety for yourself and others but, in this particular case, I have not seen much real life justification for such draconian measures for automobiles. Of course this is only based on personal observation which means very little.

I'd be curious to see if there is actual accident data backing those rules. The only time I've heard of equipment failure causing a crash is with trucks. Poor maintenance, over loaded, bad brakes, tire blowouts, etc...
 

Keshav

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The German strive for perfection and their over exaggerated rules and laws in all categories, off which most are sensible.
The purpose of the strict car laws are from the unlimited speed limits on the autobahns. Those have drastically been reduced but if your car can run 370kmph, you’d be allowed to drive it that fast with others sharing the lanes with you too. If some home cooked additions give up, then the price paid will be severe.
So although it’s exaggerated and I’m not quite following the rules myself (I’m from India), most of it has logic to it.

As far as the statistics are concerned, they surely have facts to back it all up. Even if you increase the engine displacement, you officially need to have it approved and documented.
I have an Alpina B9/ Group A Engine, i never had it approved nor does it say so in my documents. I guess I’m not regimented like most citizens here :(
 
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