The end is near....SCOTTeVEST's Baby

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Getting closer to this every day. I do like the look of no front bumper shown here. I am too far down the line with the bumper to delete. Would love to get the clear side view front indicators instead of the Amber ones I have. I tried to order them previously but they never arrived and had to cancel. Any ideas on a good source for them? Interesting that this vehicle shows black windshield wiper arms instead of chrome? Otherwise it appears I am well on the way to achieving this look now that I have ordered the tires and wheels.


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Ordered!
FIRESTONE
FIREHAWK INDY 500
  • Front: 205/55R16
  • Sidewall Style: Blackwall
  • Serv. Desc: 91W1356lbs (615kg) per tire
    Speed Rating “W”= 168mph (270kph)" style="outline: none; border: 0px; margin: auto 0px auto 5px; padding: 0px; background: url("/images/css_elements/retail/icon-sprite.png") -30px -1429px no-repeat; width: 15px; height: 15px; position: absolute; top: 0px; bottom: 0px; cursor: pointer;">
Qty
Price Each
Item(s) Total
For 1974 BMW 3.0CS
2
$81.92
$163.84
Includes Free Road Hazard Protection ($12.72 value. Two-year coverage.)

FIRESTONE
FIREHAWK INDY 500
  • Rear: 225/50R16
  • Sidewall Style: Blackwall
  • Serv. Desc: 92W1389lbs (630kg) per tire
    Speed Rating “W”= 168mph (270kph)" style="outline: none; border: 0px; margin: auto 0px auto 5px; padding: 0px; background: url("/images/css_elements/retail/icon-sprite.png") -30px -1429px no-repeat; width: 15px; height: 15px; position: absolute; top: 0px; bottom: 0px; cursor: pointer;">
Qty
Price Each
Item(s) Total
For 1974 BMW 3.0CS
2
$92.92
$185.84
Includes Free Road Hazard Protection ($14.48 value. Two-year coverage.)

Sub-Total:
$349.68
 
Scott, if you drive your coupe in rain ?? i sure wouldn't go with stronger anti-sway bar in front . That's for dry circuit racers.... my rallycar doesn't even have a front one !
 
You might notice I have changed the title of this thread from Repainting my Coupe to add "and then some." To that end, what else can/should I do?
I think there is not much I can do to exterior.
In terms of the suspension, other than anti-sway bars, which not sure I need and per @Belgiumbarry since I drive in rain, not advisable. With new springs, struts, shocks, tires, rims, etc., I think I'm all set there.
Interior looks pretty good now, other than wood, which I am awaiting removal to begin next steps, I think the only thing there I need to do is clean headliner and a few bits here and there. The clock doesn't work, but not sure I care that much. Someone previously suggested where to get it repaired. I will look that up.
This leaves the engine/powertrain. I like having the orig engine/matching numbers. It's plenty fast for what I need. I have replaced the camshaft, carbs, cylinder head, and minor bits. I need to replace some fuel and brake lines, etc. but other than an engine rebuild (is this the rings?), not sure there is much to consider here. I am excited to have the engine compartment painted and cleaned up.

What am I missing. While my wallet is open, what is next?

I was going to go on a vacation with my wife in April, but thinking that a road trip is in order instead. I don't think I could tolerate being away from my newly painted/sort of restored coupe.

Thanks again!
 
Well that escalated quickly! You shouldn’t need to roll your fenders with the BBS that you bought. They are very nice looking. Most people strive for 8” BBS RS006 in the rear but the 7” will look good also.

Your car will be very pretty. It won’t look like Christian Heine’s black coupe above. That’s not a bad thing, it just won’t. The e9 above has 17” wheels that are wider front and rear. The tires are lower profile, and the car sits lower than yours will, even with CN springs. Your car will look more like @adawil2002 ’s car, but black with a slightly different bumper and slightly shinier wheels. I’m fairly certain that Andrew has 8” rear wheels. Your rear wheels will sit about 1” inward of the fenders, like they do from the factory. If this bothers you for any reason you can get lips that are 1” wider. You can also run slightly wider tires in the back. I wouldn’t fiddle with that stuff now, except for maybe tire sizing.
 
Clock repair, either North Hollywood Speedometer or Palo Alto Speedometer.

I have the big anti-sway bars and they help with daily handling to spirited driving. They enhance handling by keeping the car flatter through curves and turns. Best bolt on addition aside from the new strut inserts and shocks.
 
Markos said:
Well that escalated quickly! You shouldn’t need to roll your fenders with the BBS that you bought. They are very nice looking. Most people strive for 8” BBS RS006 in the rear but the 7” will look good also.

Your car will be very pretty. It won’t look like Christian Heine’s black coupe above. That’s not a bad thing, it just won’t. The e9 above has 17” wheels that are wider front and rear. The tires are lower profile, and the car sits lower than yours will, even with CN springs. Your car will look more like @adawil2002 ’s car, but black with a slightly different bumper and slightly shinier wheels. I’m fairly certain that Andrew has 8” rear wheels. Your rear wheels will sit about 1” inward of the fenders, like they do from the factory. If this bothers you for any reason you can get lips that are 1” wider. You can also run slightly wider tires in the back. I wouldn’t fiddle with that stuff now, except for maybe tire sizing.
Click to expand...

My wheels are 16x7 ET 11 running 205/55 Kumhos as a square set up so I can rotate the tires. Will need to roll the front fenders, or the side walls will get chewed up and make spaghetti rubber strips peel off.

Scott, you will need the BMW large plastic hex wrench for the hub caps.
http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=5514&mospid=47206&hg=36&fg=15

Number 7 in the lower illustration. $27
 
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Scott,

Seems like you'll have very nice coupe when this "repaint" is done, as always, things tend to escalate as you go;)
I can't remember everything that has been written so far, but one thing that always hurt my eyes is if the headlights are worn on a car with fresh paint and shiny trim. Don't know the condition of yours?
Keep it up!
 
adawil2002 said:
My wheels are 16x7 ET 11 running 205/55 Kumhos as a square set up so I can rotate the tires. Will need to roll the front fenders, or the side walls will get chewed up and make spaghetti rubber strips peel off.
Click to expand...

Ahh very good. That gives Scott an idea on the look. It also makes quite a bit sense for both of you because you both drive a LOT. I undersatnd that you needed to roll the front fenders, but I don't think that is the norm. The factory wheels are 7" ET11. I have the same 16" setup on my car and I don't get any rubbing.
 
Markos said:
Ahh very good. That gives Scott an idea on the look. It also makes quite a bit sense for both of you because you both drive a LOT. I undersatnd that you needed to roll the front fenders, but I don't think that is the norm. The factory wheels are 7" ET11. I have the same 16" setup on my car and I don't get any rubbing.
Click to expand...

Stocks wheels and tires are 195/70 14. When you lower the car and go to a 205/55 16 they are wide enough to the front fender side to rub on the inner lip over bumps and dips.
 
adawil2002 said:
Stocks wheels and tires are 195/70 14. When you lower the car and go to a 205/55 16 they are wide enough to the front fender side to rub on the inner lip over bumps and dips.
Click to expand...

My car isn't lowered, but it doesn't have US spacers either. Perhaps I haven't been over a bump large enough to replicate normal cycling the suspension of a lowered car. I haven't heard anyone else mention that fender rolling is required with 7" ET11 wheels. I suspect that your need was due to the geometry issue that you had with your front suspension. If you were wearing out your outer tires up front, that means that the top of your tire was pushed outward towards the fender.

Sorry to deviate from painting (and more), but Scott - I suggest that you cycle the suspension with the car on the lift and floor jack under the tire - before rolling your fenders. I personally don't think that you will need to roll your fenders at all. I like stuffing big wheels under cars but I wouldn't roll the fenders on a classic car unless you need to. I will need to roll my fenders in the future to. I'm not thrilled about it but it doesn't seem to hurt value whatsoever. For me that means my car will hold it's $3K value. :D

My fronts:
205_55_16.jpg
 
Markos said:
My car isn't lowered, but it doesn't have US spacers either. Perhaps I haven't been over a bump large enough to replicate normal cycling the suspension of a lowered car. I haven't heard anyone else mention that fender rolling is required with 7" ET11 wheels. I suspect that your need was due to the geometry issue that you had with your front suspension. If you were wearing out your outer tires up front, that means that the top of your tire was pushed outward towards the fender.

Sorry to deviate from painting (and more), but Scott - I suggest that you cycle the suspension with the car on the lift and floor jack under the tire - before rolling your fenders. I personally don't think that you will need to roll your fenders at all. I like stuffing big wheels under cars but I wouldn't roll the fenders on a classic car unless you need to. I will need to roll my fenders in the future to. I'm not thrilled about it but it doesn't seem to hurt value whatsoever. For me that means my car will hold it's $3K value. [emoji1]

My fronts:
View attachment 42057
Click to expand...

Unfortunately or fortunately the fenders were already rolled based upon prior advice on getting lower springs alone needing to do so. As a result of rolling the fenders unfortunately as you can see from the last video some restoration was needed to be done. I believe it has been completed and have been told of the additional cost yet.


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Man, Scott, you are on a roll! Your E9 will be amazing!

Glad you pulled the trigger on the BBS RS wheels. They should fit just perfectly with zero rubbing; especially w/the fenders rolled.

W/the dash out, good time to fix that clock. Won't be that much to fix.


Regarding the wood, take out all the wood, and maybe have ONE PIECE hydrodipped and see if that's what you want before you do all the pieces. Not sure how long that stuff lasts, but if they put them on guns, they should be able to last inside a car as long as maybe it doesn't get TOO hot and humid in there.

I wouldn't worry about the engine if she runs good.

If you got money, go for a 5-speed and an LSD with a 3.45 or 3.64 rear end. Then your car will be a blast to drive while cruising the interstate. But seriously, this stuff can wait. Once she's done by Bennyz, you'll want to drive the heck out of her as-is for a long time.
 
adawil2002 said:
My wheels are 16x7 ET 11 running 205/55 Kumhos as a square set up so I can rotate the tires. Will need to roll the front fenders, or the side walls will get chewed up and make spaghetti rubber strips peel off.

Scott, you will need the BMW large plastic hex wrench for the hub caps.
http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=5514&mospid=47206&hg=36&fg=15

Number 7 in the lower illustration. $27
Click to expand...


Ok. I will order although not sure why i need it but i will get it. Should I try to get BMW center caps for wheels too, instead of bbs?
 
scottevest said:
Ok. I will order although not sure why i need it but i will get it. Should I try to get BMW center caps for wheels too, instead of bbs?
Click to expand...

The wrench is used to install and remove the center caps. Unlike nearly all modern wheels (including BBS) which have snap on caps, the center caps are all aluminum, and they thread onto the wheel quite wonderfully. One easy way to tell replica wheels from real RS wheels is that the replicas often have a visible set screw on the "waffle" to hold it in place. The other way to tell is where the faces meet the lips, but I digress.

930%20BBS%20center%20caps%20with%20wrench_zpswufc7mcn.jpg
 
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