What did you do to your E9 today?

Basically the same, except for solid top and front (Sections A and F)

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Those vents are probably just AC. Back in the 50's before factory air was a thing, some AC units were installed in the trunk where there is lots of room. Compressor up front and the evaporator in the trunk. I've seen mentions of kits from Vintage Air and Old Air. That's one way to avoid the hassle finding the right dash parts and tearing out the dash to install them.
 
Those vents are probably just AC. Back in the 50's before factory air was a thing, some AC units were installed in the trunk where there is lots of room. Compressor up front and the evaporator in the trunk. I've seen mentions of kits from Vintage Air and Old Air. That's one way to avoid the hassle finding the right dash parts and tearing out the dash to install them.
Interesting, yeah never seen or heard of that on a coupe before. Learn something new every day here. I can go home now.
 
Ran new brake lines, reinstalled the front sway bar (and put on firewall insulation). Both of those jobs were harder than expected. The brake lines were harder because the connection of the one long line to its insertion into the rear brake cylinder was completely locked up. I ended up needing to cut that line and remove the cylinder from the car to put it in a vise in order to have the leverage. Also just really tight quarters back there with no room for tools. With the sway bar, the new mounts that hold the bar down would not fit into the space between the subframe and frame. I ended up following the lead of some here and dropped the subframe. Totally the way to go. Four bolts and immediate easy access.
I also used my quickjack on this car for the first time - they just released a crossbeam that allows for different-width front and rear jacking points. Worked great - front is lifting by frame and rear is lifting by the rear subframe.
 

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Continuing the brake and wheel work, reinstalled the protection plates after blasting and powder coating them, pulled the wheel hub bearings and disassembled them (that was a lot of banging to get the races out!), then cleaned them, blasted them (picture shows one pre- and one post-blasting) and primed them in preparation for painting and reinstalling tomorrow evening. The front wheels will then be done except for the calipers which are being rebuilt down in California. What grease do people recommend for the inside there - I’ve seen various options, and have a few tubes of the Lucas red and tacky grease which I had used on my MG and is specifically designed for wheel bearings…
 

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Bearings installed! Not as sure what to do with the rears, for the fronts I was able to find a kit from Ireland Engineering that had all of the parts, not available for the rears so may just disassemble and repack. Also going to change the parking brake shoes since I will be right there.
 

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Bearings installed! Not as sure what to do with the rears, for the fronts I was able to find a kit from Ireland Engineering that had all of the parts, not available for the rears so may just disassemble and repack. Also going to change the parking brake shoes since I will be right there.
Looks good! You have a very similar approach to your car as I do with mine. Anything that gets touched gets cleaned/painted etc. Where did you end up getting rotors from?
 
Looks good! You have a very similar approach to your car as I do with mine. Anything that gets touched gets cleaned/painted etc. Where did you end up getting rotors from?
I got them from W&N when they were on sale a few months back. And yes, trying to address the issues as I encounter them, although reading a bit more about the rear bearings it sounds as if this is a job that is much more extensive/annoying/difficult than the fronts, so I may slightly cut my losses and remove the protection plate to clean it up, replace the shoes and then repack the bearings. There doesn't seem to be any excessive play in them or anything that suggests they require a full rebuild. If I ever needed to do it it's not as if my job is so much harder then than it would be now then, unlike some other things (brake lines, e.g. while engine is out)
 
OK, well after discussion with Mesa Performance they have rear wheel bearing kits available, $70 per side. JJ at Mesa suggested the job is obnoxious but not overly difficult and could be done without removing the trailing arm, which it appears is how some of you have done it as well. So another thing added to my list...
 
Welded in a complete prefabricated sill (if thats the correct english word). TIG, MAG and spot welding. Left side to go.
(erstmal ein Erdinger Weissbrau -:)
 

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