Quelqu'un peut me dire si un stock Zenith Carb mis en place à partir d'un 72 Bavaria se adaptera sur une / 3.0CS 2800 sans grands mods?
Je pense que cela devrais aller aprés réglage
I think it should go after adjustment
Will have to start somewhere
- Thread starter Peter Coomaraswamy
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Quelqu'un peut me dire si un stock Zenith Carb mis en place à partir d'un 72 Bavaria se adaptera sur une / 3.0CS 2800 sans grands mods?
Je pense que cela devrais aller aprés réglage
I think it should go after adjustment
Peter, for the under dash panels I had tried many products that eventually failed again. Bez had suggested in a previous post to use gorilla glue and it worked great. Use the amber color one that turns into an expanding foam. It bonds the foam to the metal. Just use a little and clamp it and then trim off any excess that squeezes out when dry.
Doug
Doug
Will try in the am- thanks!
+1 on the Gorilla Glue. It has been 5 years & my panels are still holding.
Engine out- clean up begins
V. Tried the Gorilla glue, jury is out but I'll report back- thanks.
Thought today would be a good morning to drop the engine. It was a pretty easy job- of course there is the installation to worry about now but all good things in all good time.
Also posted picture of rear diff. numbers- hope someone can identify- thanks.
Note small rodent condo built between the steering box and the inner fender. Location, location, location!
V. Tried the Gorilla glue, jury is out but I'll report back- thanks.
Thought today would be a good morning to drop the engine. It was a pretty easy job- of course there is the installation to worry about now but all good things in all good time.
Also posted picture of rear diff. numbers- hope someone can identify- thanks.
Note small rodent condo built between the steering box and the inner fender. Location, location, location!
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3.45 LSD, a common ratio for US 2800s, most have a 3.64 here, especially 3.0CS.
Thanks Chris, the clean up begins!
Tire question
In an effort to maintain "originality" to the extent possible in the Polaris coupe, I have been looking at tires. I want to keep the original wheels and hub caps and on Tire rack I found quite a number of choices in both 195/70/14 and 205/70/14. I know there were very specific tires (I think Michelin) that came on the car but I think tires are expected to be replaced so with that in mind does anyone have a recommendation. Unfortunately the tires that came with the car are really deteriorated(ing) though they look to have very few miles on them.
Thanks
In an effort to maintain "originality" to the extent possible in the Polaris coupe, I have been looking at tires. I want to keep the original wheels and hub caps and on Tire rack I found quite a number of choices in both 195/70/14 and 205/70/14. I know there were very specific tires (I think Michelin) that came on the car but I think tires are expected to be replaced so with that in mind does anyone have a recommendation. Unfortunately the tires that came with the car are really deteriorated(ing) though they look to have very few miles on them.
Thanks
Manual says
The blue repair manual says HR14 for most models and VR14 for the CSI and CSL. Wikipedia says that pre 1991 had three speed ratings, SR 112 mph, HR is 130 mph, VR above 130mph.
I could not find a weight rating, does anyone know what this is for our cars and how It is worked out, static weight, axle weight, entire car weight?
I run mine on new Bridgestone B330, they work but I can't say that traction is great, it is certainly better since I replaced the shocks, bushes etc etc. however I am comparing this to a modern Alpha that drives very well and runs wide, low profile tyres that it eats very frequently.
C
The blue repair manual says HR14 for most models and VR14 for the CSI and CSL. Wikipedia says that pre 1991 had three speed ratings, SR 112 mph, HR is 130 mph, VR above 130mph.
I could not find a weight rating, does anyone know what this is for our cars and how It is worked out, static weight, axle weight, entire car weight?
I run mine on new Bridgestone B330, they work but I can't say that traction is great, it is certainly better since I replaced the shocks, bushes etc etc. however I am comparing this to a modern Alpha that drives very well and runs wide, low profile tyres that it eats very frequently.
C
Just for clarification- Execmalibu (Jeff) suggested use of Gorilla Glue. I actually ended up using 3M Epoxy on mine. I figured that the epoxy would be stronger at holding the edges that required quite a bit of force to appose. I clamped down the edges using large black metal binder clips. I venture to guess that the epoxy is less forgiving when the extraneous glue is squeezed out the edges and onto the felt lining after clamping. Ask me how I know
Gorilla glue
Well, I tried the Gorilla Glue and have to say that I think that is the trick. There are probably other things that will work, but I am really pleased with the results from GG. I'll try to sneak away to the shop today (again) and take some more shots.
I rolled the engine outside yesterday and gave her a good power washing. Now I can see all the things that need reworking. I think the hardest part of this restoration- if you can call it that- if figuring out what things to replace and what to leave original. After checking the cyl. pressure I'll probably just reseal everything with new gaskets. It sure is allot easier with the engine out of the car
The only other thing I'm considering changing is the A/C compressor with a more efficient unit but I will keep all the original parts. To me, if the car ends up in the south, if not in my garage when I'm done the A/C will be of the utmost importance.
Thanks for all the input- I feel like I'm not so alone
Well, I tried the Gorilla Glue and have to say that I think that is the trick. There are probably other things that will work, but I am really pleased with the results from GG. I'll try to sneak away to the shop today (again) and take some more shots.
I rolled the engine outside yesterday and gave her a good power washing. Now I can see all the things that need reworking. I think the hardest part of this restoration- if you can call it that- if figuring out what things to replace and what to leave original. After checking the cyl. pressure I'll probably just reseal everything with new gaskets. It sure is allot easier with the engine out of the car
The only other thing I'm considering changing is the A/C compressor with a more efficient unit but I will keep all the original parts. To me, if the car ends up in the south, if not in my garage when I'm done the A/C will be of the utmost importance.
Thanks for all the input- I feel like I'm not so alone
Long shot but might someone have???
I'm looking for this portion of the front passenger's floor. It's rather hard to form accurately (especially if you're me). Anyhow, I figured there might be some owner out there with a parts car and a saws-all that needs to take some aggression out.
Also posted in WTB
I'm looking for this portion of the front passenger's floor. It's rather hard to form accurately (especially if you're me). Anyhow, I figured there might be some owner out there with a parts car and a saws-all that needs to take some aggression out.
Also posted in WTB
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just some shots
Thought I would post a few shots of the work so far. The rust on the previous post looks rather nasty but if I can find the right piece I can weld it in nicely. After cleaning up the engine and trans I think I'll re-seal the beast and get it really clean. I will paint the block and the PB booster etc and rebuild the brake master and clutch slave and replace any lines that need it but other than that I just want her to look like she has 79K clean miles on her, though thinking of having the Zeniths completely rebuilt. Also I might as well put in a new clutch/PP/TOB/etc as long as the engine is out. I will also do the drive shaft support bearing and possibly rebalance and put in new U joints. I hope to wash the underside and patch any seams where the sealer is cracked and generally clean her up. I am hoping not to have to paint the engine bay because I like the "heat treated" look, especially for a "survivor" but I post here in case anyone wants to make any suggestions at all.
Thanks
Thought I would post a few shots of the work so far. The rust on the previous post looks rather nasty but if I can find the right piece I can weld it in nicely. After cleaning up the engine and trans I think I'll re-seal the beast and get it really clean. I will paint the block and the PB booster etc and rebuild the brake master and clutch slave and replace any lines that need it but other than that I just want her to look like she has 79K clean miles on her, though thinking of having the Zeniths completely rebuilt. Also I might as well put in a new clutch/PP/TOB/etc as long as the engine is out. I will also do the drive shaft support bearing and possibly rebalance and put in new U joints. I hope to wash the underside and patch any seams where the sealer is cracked and generally clean her up. I am hoping not to have to paint the engine bay because I like the "heat treated" look, especially for a "survivor" but I post here in case anyone wants to make any suggestions at all.
Thanks
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just a little more progress
I am trying to clean things like the valve cover without destroying the original texture, it almost seems porous and the black stains, or dark areas won't brighten up? I have only started in a small area but is that common or is there a way to get it cleaner?
I also took some time to fashion a little patch for the rear inner rocker. The picture does not show much especially after the Por-15 application and I know no one will see it but I feel better now that that's done. Now I have to make another patch of thinner steel to go over that so I can put the outer rocker cover on.
Took advice below on cooling system and opted for the aluminum radiator since this has the original (casted 71) head. I will of course keep the original, so the only changes I have planned are the A/C compressor and the radiator, shocks and springs.
Can anyone suggest the best (most efficient/powerful/least parasitic) compressor for the A/C that will work with the rest of the standard components?
Thanks
I am trying to clean things like the valve cover without destroying the original texture, it almost seems porous and the black stains, or dark areas won't brighten up? I have only started in a small area but is that common or is there a way to get it cleaner?
I also took some time to fashion a little patch for the rear inner rocker. The picture does not show much especially after the Por-15 application and I know no one will see it but I feel better now that that's done. Now I have to make another patch of thinner steel to go over that so I can put the outer rocker cover on.
Took advice below on cooling system and opted for the aluminum radiator since this has the original (casted 71) head. I will of course keep the original, so the only changes I have planned are the A/C compressor and the radiator, shocks and springs.
Can anyone suggest the best (most efficient/powerful/least parasitic) compressor for the A/C that will work with the rest of the standard components?
Thanks
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Media blast or tumble, no sand blasting.
Once the valve cover is clean I maintain mine with Collinite metal polish and wax. I was not able to get a clear coat of any kind to last.
If you want a more efficient conpressor like the Sanden rotary you will need new hoses because the fittings are in a different location than the the York. Make note of correct flare fittings. While you have the radiator out I would put in a parallel flow condensor. More info:
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9633
If you want a more efficient conpressor like the Sanden rotary you will need new hoses because the fittings are in a different location than the the York. Make note of correct flare fittings. While you have the radiator out I would put in a parallel flow condensor. More info:
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9633
MyFemurHurts
Well-Known Member
At some point soon I'm going to use my uncles media blaster on my valve cover. He says he has some fine glass beads that should polish it up.
Hi Steve, from your earlier post;
Not including the vacuum pump and gauge set (about $160):
compressor and bracket - $190
condensor- $90
hoses and fittings - $120
dryer - $30
machine shop work - $30
misc brackets and bolts - $15
Did you go to a single source for these items, if not can you recommend places to seek them out. The dryer from the other thread for example is no longer available but is available on other sites. I can get the hoses and fittings without much problem, but the compressor, condenser, dryer and brackets might take me a while to track down because I'm not very experienced with A/C. I can set everything up but will probably take to a friends shop to have the system leak tested and charged.
Any help would be appreciated- Thanks
Not including the vacuum pump and gauge set (about $160):
compressor and bracket - $190
condensor- $90
hoses and fittings - $120
dryer - $30
machine shop work - $30
misc brackets and bolts - $15
Did you go to a single source for these items, if not can you recommend places to seek them out. The dryer from the other thread for example is no longer available but is available on other sites. I can get the hoses and fittings without much problem, but the compressor, condenser, dryer and brackets might take me a while to track down because I'm not very experienced with A/C. I can set everything up but will probably take to a friends shop to have the system leak tested and charged.
Any help would be appreciated- Thanks
