Deconstruction Thread: How to part-out an E9

[Markos]

Update:

I didn't snap any pics of the front regulator removal, as I think I've done that already. I do question, what is the "correct" way to remove the regulator. I sat there for over ten minutes turning the little thumb wheel before trying to squeeze it out the top. Then I looked over at the vent window and realized that it's wider there, and that must have been how I removed the first. The vent window was already unbolted so I just pulled it out followed by the regulator. I'm curious to know if anyone squeezes the regulator out of the bottom of the door, or if the vent window is the way to go.

The rear regulators are a snap, there are 9 10mm bolts holding them in place. Don't forget the one behind the felt strip. The aluminum door trim is slightly in the way of the black steel door panel support panel. You can get it out without bending or removing the aluminum door trim however. If I had good glass I might consider taping the inside of the glass before trying to maneuver the backing piece out.

The bent aluminum trim is evidence that this regulator has been out before:

Make note of the wiring terminals for the motor. You only need to unscrew the chassis wiring (the top), not the motor wiring (bottom):

After removing the old sound deadening, I have to say that the inside of the rear quarter looks great!

Looking forward to pulling these off! (excuse the clutter. Parts cars are messy!)

 

[Markos]

Removing the exhaust manifold. The 12mm copper nuts broke free with almost no effort. I left them in place to maintain leverage on the 17mm downpipe nuts. I've been using my jack handle as a cheater bar on this project. That worked great for the fender side of the three nuts . For the nut closest to the block, I had to use a 12 point socket with a 1/2" breaker bar. One they were all free I switched to a 3/8" socket wrench to maximize the ratcheting in the small space. If my kids weren't asleep an air ratchet would be the way to go.

When I pull the head I'll just leave the cracked rear manifold hooked up to the downpipe There is plenty of play to pull the manifold away from the head.

These pics may come in handy for something...

Manifold - $50 shipped

Total Sales: $2,870
Remaining: $530

edit: Sold the arm rests and the speaker covers.

Total Sales: $2,913
Remaining: $487

edit: Sold the fan

Total Sales: $2,928
Remaining: $472

To clean the fan, use WD-40 and 0000 (Super Fine) steel wool.

 

[Markos]

As mentioned the throttle stop that I sold is absent from my project car. I asked a friend to keep a lookout for another. Just in case, I made a template and stuck it in an envelope for later.

Total Sales: $2,968
Remaining: $432

 

[HB Chris]

Six point sockets are best with difficult to remove nuts, especially the copper ones. When you said throttle stop, I thought you meant the one on the block/bell crank. Where does that one go, I'm not seeing it.

 

[Markos]

Six point sockets are best with difficult to remove nuts, especially the copper ones.

I agree. Six points are my default for sockets and box wrenches. I almost never use 12 points. I used 12 points in this case because there isn't enough room to get a 6 point where you need it (unless you are lucky). 6 points are great until you need to unscrew something in a tight spot.

The best option would be to remove the downpipe bolts from under a lift. You can probably get at least two if not three bolts with an impact gun woth an extension.

 

[Markos]

When you said throttle stop, I thought you meant the one on the block/bell crank. Where does that one go, I'm not seeing it.

Hmm I probably should have said throttle pedal stop. It goes on the floor behind the accelerator.

This picture is hard to make sense of because of the makeshift floor boards and missing bump on the floor for the pedal. Edit: FYI - Coupe King fabricates and sells these as well:

E9 CS Coupe – Accelerator Pedal Stop Bracket – Coupeking – Restoration Parts, Manuals, and Used Parts

 

[Stevehose]

I can confirm that all 6 downpipe nuts come off easily with an impact gun and the right combination of extensions and knuckle. Have done this too many times.

I agree. Six points are my default for sockets and box wrenches. I almost never use 12 points. I used 12 points in this case because there isn't enough room to get a 6 point where you need it (unless you are lucky). 6 points are great until you need to unscrew something in a tight spot.

The best option would be to remove the downpipe bolts from under a lift. You can probably get at least two if not three bolts with an impact gun woth an extension.

 

[HB Chris]

Since mine was an automatic I have the big plunger contraption, I don't think I have that piece.

 

[rsporsche]

i'm with you Chris. mine was a CSa as well. never have seen that piece either.

 

[3nsahalee]

I don't think that is a stock part, Mark. I'm on my 5th coupe (2000cs, 2800 and now 3.0), both autos and manuals, and have never seen such a part. Also, with the trans-tunnel fiber cover trimmed by gas pedal the way it is- that's not original cutout either.
You say your floor has been redone? I think it's missing the kick-down switch/button that is typically mounted on floor behind pedal.

 

[Markos]

I don't think that is a stock part, Mark. I'm on my 5th coupe (2000cs, 2800 and now 3.0), both autos and manuals, and have never seen such a part. Also, with the trans-tunnel fiber cover trimmed by gas pedal the way it is- that's not original cutout either.
You say your floor has been redone? I think it's missing the kick-down switch/button that is typically mounted on floor behind pedal.

I'm guessing the part didn't live all that long or was replaced by the later version when the floors were fixed. My car has riveted floor panels, but the original metal is still there. You can tell from the materials and fasteners that it's the real deal.

The bolts mounts from the underside with captured nuts on the stop itself. The part is going to Don, who gave me a detailed description of the part and the removal process before I snapped that pic.

Here is a drawing of it on realoem:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=7031-EUR-10-1973-E9-BMW-30CSi&diagId=35_0228

 

[Sean-e9]

I'm guessing the part didn't live all that long or was replaced by the later version when the floors were fixed. My car has riveted floor panels, but the original metal is still there. You can tell from the materials and fasteners that it's the real deal.

The bolts mounts from the underside with captured nuts on the stop itself. The part is going to Don, who gave me a detailed description of the part and the removal process before I snapped that pic.

Here is a drawing of it on realoem:

View attachment 25821

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=7031-EUR-10-1973-E9-BMW-30CSi&diagId=35_0228

I think the guy restoring my car just had a bunch laser cut. Let me know if you want me to try and procure one.

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[Markos]

I think the guy restoring my car just had a bunch laser cut. Let me know if you want me to try and procure one.

Very cool! Yes that would be great!

 

[Sean-e9]

Very cool! Yes that would be great!

Pm sent


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[Tony.dreamer]

You happen to have a picture(s) of the sunroof drains? Does one (on each side) go down the a-pillar and another down the c-pillar? Curious where they are and where they end.

I have mine all apart for a complete rebuild.
There are two drains on each side they both go down the C pillars. Also I think there are two in the front whose drain pipe go through the A pillars ... for the back two I can see the pipes inside the trunk behind the wheel well, on the inner skin of the quarter panels. Down through the corners of the bottom of and behind the wheel wells on each side.
Aside from Rust proofing I kinda liked the way it is engineered when you look from above and under the roof you see how the steel bracket section of the sunroof from inside captures any sipped-in-water and guide it to the back down the two drains... I imagine if the car is sitting on a level surface most if not all of the water goes through the back two hoses ...
If painted and rust proofed well it shouldn't corrode. Mine was in relatively great shape even though the rest of the car was full of rust sections.

 

[Tony.dreamer]

Hello Markos,
Does you part car has disc brake in the back?
If so would you consider selling me the parts , trailing arms and caliper and hub?
Thanks
Tony P.

 

[Markos]

Hello Markos,
Does you part car has disc brake in the back?
If so would you consider selling me the parts , trailing arms and caliper and hub?
Thanks
Tony P.

Thank you for your interest Tony. I also have a 2800CS and will be putting the disk setup in my project car. I'll keeping my eyes out for you. I have little time to deconstruct the parts car but all the time in the world to hunt down parts.

 

[Tony.dreamer]

Thank you for your interest Tony. I also have a 2800CS and will be putting the disk setup in my project car. I'll keeping my eyes out for you. I have little time to deconstruct the parts car but all the time in the world to hunt down parts.

Thank you Markos,
I read a lot of your threads and I am impressed by your level of interest and passion toward the E9. I look forward to seeing your post for the peices you pull out for your disc upgrade. I talked to Carl Nelson and he is saying the only peices that will work has to come from a E9 CS coupe 3.0 ....
Best wishes!
Ps. Let me know if you come across any Disc brake components..
Tony P.

 

[Markos]

Keep you posted! This is my first BMW and I've only driven the car about ten miles in two years. I go all in with my automotivr hobbies. Although, my wife tells me that my relay hobby is talking about cars on the internet

 

[Markos]

Quick update. Lower Steering column fits in a 3" tube.

Details on the significance of the three indicator rings cut into the lower column can be found here:

32 31 071 - Lower steering column - replacing < 32 - Steering and wheel alignment < BMW 2.5CS - 3.0CSL

Total Sales: $3040
Remaining: $360