Deconstruction Thread: How to part-out an E9

Mark,

Use LOTS of Kroil penetrating oil (or preferably their Penephite) on those hose couplings. Let it soak for a day, then do it again - may need to treat for several days, but everything I've used this on eventually could be disconnected.

It is best to try to keep the pipe that comes out of the firewall in good condition. Hoses can be replaced easily. Try not to damage the pipe - but some damage close to the connection 'might' be able to be repaired. I think they are copper.

Gary--
 
Thanks Gary! Yeah the pipes are copper. I normally use PB Blster but it is stinky as hell. How does the Kroil smell? Seems superficial but we use our garage for a lot of things. I had to air out my the garage for a few hours after using it to get the hoses off the AC dryer.
 
Stevehose said:
And hit the outer coupling with a torch after soaking then give it another go
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Good suggestion. I haven't had to bust out the torch for anything yet. I'm going to call the buyer today to see if he wants to recycle the lines. Most of them were pretty brittle. If he plans on using new lines then I'm taking a cutter to them.

I also need to buy some bigger wrenches. I have sockets up to 36mm but my open ended stop at 19mm, and my flare nut wrenches stop at 17mm. Fortunately I don't plan on running AC in my car, and I don't know of any other part of the car that needs a 21mm flare nut wrench.
 
Markos,

Well, my nose has been smelling stuff for almost 80 years, so it may be de-sensitized. But, I do not find the Kroil products (penetrating oil, Silikroil and Penephite) objectionable. A slight odor, but doesn't linger long. Again - just my opinion!!!! (I find Penephite is probably the best of the three, and I have/use all three of these).

Gary
 
Markos said:
Thanks Gary! I normally use PB Blster but it is stinky as hell. How does the Kroil smell? Seems superficial but we use our garage for a lot of things. I had to air out my the garage for a few hours after using it to get the hoses off the AC dryer.
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Hah, that s funny, all my pb blaster contaminated shop rags have been banished from the laundry for years.
 
Oh hell, it's a parts car. Why am I spending time on stuck fittings?

The AC lines need to be pulled through into the cabin. The nuts are too large on the cabin side to go through the firewall.

Anyway, I opened up the firewall and made short work of my dilemma:
31628280754_955b04a968_b.jpg


A few measurements for folks that may need to replicate the two distinct hard lines.
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If you were to lay this horizontally, the line raises up towards the dash 2".

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The AC is ready to get boxed up!
 
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Shipping the trunk hinges tomorrow. Sold them for $25, which has been my go-to price for small things.

The hinges are held in place by captured bolts. At least I think they are captured. I didn't feel any welds on the backside but I smacked them with a hammer and they didn't move. Two 13mm nuts secure each side and the hinge itself is slotted for vertical adjust-ability.

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Total Sales: $2,821
Remaining: $579

Edit: Oops, I underestimated how heavy the hinges were. Shipping was $20, not $7. You would think that I would be better at estimating this stuff by now! Sold the hinges for $12 :D

Total Sales: $2,808
Remaining: $592
 
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Vitaliy semenyuk said:
I see you've been making some progress!!
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Yes finally. Time to come over and pull some wiring!

My box wasn't big enough for the AC parts. I think I'll use two boxes. Next up are the window regulators. I'm trading them for something cool!
 
Revisiting the trunk again. Sold the trunk stops to a member in need for $25.

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Total Sales: $2,833
Remaining: $567

Edit: Why is the post office so damn expensive? These were $12.75 to ship 1lb. Not $5. If I use my work account I can fedex 52lbs for $25, but the paperwork is annoying.

Total Sales: $2,825
Remaining: $575
 
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You happen to have a picture(s) of the sunroof drains? Does one (on each side) go down the a-pillar and another down the c-pillar? Curious where they are and where they end.
 
teahead said:
You happen to have a picture(s) of the sunroof drains? Does one (on each side) go down the a-pillar and another down the c-pillar? Curious where they are and where they end.
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I haven't snapped any pics. They end in a giant rusty hole int he rocker panel :D

Seriously though, you were asking about the window grommet not long ago. They travel through the void right behind that grommet. Inside there you will find a harness connection for the power windows, and an impossibly difficult to unscrew window ground wire (I think they built the car around this ground wire). Without looking, I assume that it drops right into the rocker, which has about a 25mm drain rectangle thingy nearby. I'll stick my phone in there and snap a pic. I haven't looked at the rear exist as of yet.
 
In the rear they simply drain into the rear window cavity, there are slots in the bottom to drain outside. These get plugged and the rockers soon turn to rust. Some use a pipe and tap it into the rear wheel well instead.
 
At this point I no longer needed to unscrew the AC soft lines. They aren't very flexible and pose a shipping problem due to length. I wanted to get them decoupled from the hard lines and the condenser.

I bought a new workbench last year and picked up an old Wilton bullet vise. I'm going to have it powder coated so it hasn't been bolted down yet.

Purchased:
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Edit: Media blasted, steel brushed, and powder coated:
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Anyway, the fallback plan that provided significantly more leverage is my mobile vise. It mounts to a 2" receiver hitch. The vise and the cheater bar with a bit of PB Blaster made short work of the couplings. I didn't need to use heat.

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Some tools of the trade to get these fittings off. The fisher price circular saw was a game changer according to my 2yo.

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teahead said:
You happen to have a picture(s) of the sunroof drains? Does one (on each side) go down the a-pillar and another down the c-pillar? Curious where they are and where they end.
Click to expand...

This is where the tube runs up front. You can see it bend down into the rocker.
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Thanks Markos. And the water just sits in that bottom well? Or does it go all the way through to the outside?
 
I figured that now is a good time to dig this thread up from the trenches. I have been buried with work
over the last month, and have spent zero time in the garage. My taxes are done, no excuse not to work on the car! I have 10 days before the permit for my deck goes through, then it's back to working with wood. I much prefer the precision of nuts and bolts over the flexibility of making things fit with construction.

This month is as a lesson in being thoughtful about the part out process. I sold my air box and bracket right out of the gates, but decided that I want one for my DCOE paper weights. Although I don't need it for several years, I setup a private group buy with some locals to obtain a few. I will be sending mine down to Portland for a member to experiment with on his car for a bit.

I also accepted payment on a throttle stop (inside the cabin), only to determine that my project car has a hole where one should live. I will definitely need to procure another.

This weekend I plan to remove the exhaust manifold which is pending sale, the regulators which I traded for a set of Stahl headers, along with said throttle stop. After that I'm pulling the cylinder head and going into the engine. I wanted to keep the high compression piano top pistons but I was told by Carl N. that I can't bore out the 2800 CS motor to 3.0. I have a buyer for them but I need to get moving.

Look at all those air boxes that aren't for sale! :D
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