My 1974 Inka S38B35 project

teahead

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quite a journey!

what a puzzle you put back together.

Again, very smart of you to have collected those rare parts that are NLA. I.e. fenders/rear wings, etc.
 

Candia4441

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quite a journey!

what a puzzle you put back together.

Again, very smart of you to have collected those rare parts that are NLA. I.e. fenders/rear wings, etc.
it is very hard work he build complete E9 from A to Z to know all of this work and to do it right it is amazing and how many man hour it takes to complete this hard work God bless you
 

xjan99

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Another update to the chronicles for August means 76,5h spent... mostly on restoring the doors :)

Continuing with the driver's side door, the inner frame almost done with new lower section etc:
IMG_20220822_162308.jpg


Preparing the new door skin:
IMG_20220823_111059.jpg


And the restored frame to meet each other:
IMG_20220823_111147.jpg


Here we go:
IMG_20220823_131548.jpg


With the door done, we mend the gaps:
IMG_20220824_090337.jpg


Looking better now:
IMG_20220825_085600.jpg


And we can finsh welding up the front A-pillar:
IMG_20220826_095426.jpg


And windscreen frame as well:
IMG_20220826_095433.jpg


Door hinges blasted and primered:
IMG_20220826_111259.jpg


New rail for the seal below the door too:
IMG_20220826_111408.jpg


And finishing touches on the rear wing:
IMG_20220826_135613.jpg


The passenger side door is in rough shape as well:
IMG_20220829_074712.jpg


Eek....:
IMG_20220829_074717.jpg


Someone has "repaired" it previously cutting good parts from another door most probably...
IMG_20220829_081103.jpg


Dismantled and blasted parts of the door:
IMG_20220830_151118.jpg


With the previous repairs now visible even better:
IMG_20220830_151202.jpg


We correct these signs of previous hacks of course:
IMG_20220831_135136.jpg


And here the passenger side door’s frame is almost done to be reskinned:
IMG_20220901_114129.jpg
 
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aearch

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i have a freshly rebuilt 86 s38b35 w/
11:1 compression
you would know if you have seen my posts
ok and the euro snakes
ceramic coated already
 

Tim M

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And just like Amazon it's free shipping! Oo wait your in Europe? Never mind. ;)
 

xjan99

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An additional 46h spent in September mending the passenger door and correcting gaps/body lines relating to it.

Door's frame welded and complete again:
IMG_20220902_143414.jpg


Reskinned too:
IMG_20220908_110554.jpg


The gaps are pretty awful on this side, so we will correct these:
IMG_20220906_072118.jpg


Work in progress:
IMG_20220908_150205.jpg


And here too:
IMG_20220909_111400.jpg


Much better like so:
IMG_20221003_072336.jpg


And so:
IMG_20221003_072403.jpg


So now the passenger side door is "new" again and fits well:
IMG_20221003_072356.jpg
 
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xjan99

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Update for October, hours spent - 58h
and all of it just on the hood :)

So here goes with the photos, a detailed process of restoring this POS, but I could not find a more better part nearby, so what can you do. Cannot say better than new, but it is going to be decent and is definitely usable.

Starting point is this:
IMG_20221018_112349.jpg


IMG_20221018_112358.jpg


A lot of rust issues around air vents:
IMG_20221018_112408.jpg


IMG_20221018_112414.jpg


We have to get to bare metal first, removing all the added layers.
IMG_20221018_141918.jpg


Almost there on the inner side:
IMG_20221019_101915.jpg


And now proceeding with the outer side, quite a lot of bondo. Let's dig deeper...
IMG_20221019_104637.jpg


There is one fishy area for sure on the driver's side now that it has been cleaned of paint and bondo:
IMG_20221020_103918.jpg


More or less clean surface on the outer part
IMG_20221020_111139.jpg


And inner part too:
IMG_20221021_110435.jpg


Voila, the outer skin removed from the inner frame:
IMG_20221021_142822.jpg


Frame off, the whole bonnet seems to have fire damage?!?
IMG_20221021_142853.jpg


Cleaning the inside of both parts
IMG_20221026_075246.jpg


Here too
IMG_20221026_075346.jpg


With that done we can start to rebuild the parts:
IMG_20221026_085300.jpg


Much better:
IMG_20221027_095831.jpg


Templating and testing on the other side
IMG_20221028_082752.jpg


And done
IMG_20221028_114539.jpg


A bit more here too
IMG_20221028_143821.jpg


And now as both frame and skin have been finally repaired, it is time to check how they fit back together
IMG_20221031_075443.jpg


Primered frame
IMG_20221031_131207.jpg


And hood skin too
IMG_20221031_131215.jpg


Add some glue
IMG_20221031_132158.jpg


And we can put the hood back together
IMG_20221031_135745.jpg


IMG_20221031_135800.jpg


A bit of finishing touches
IMG_20221101_101031.jpg


Test fitting the hood, panel gapping etc to follow and it is done then.
Roof still remains from the big items on the body shell, so... to be continued :)
 
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E9madada

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Update for October, hours spent - 58h
and all of it just on the hood :)

So here goes with the photos and detailed process or restoring this pos, but I could not find a more better part, so what you do. Cannot say better than new, but it is going to be decent and usable.

Starting point is this:
View attachment 151045

View attachment 151044

A lot of rust issues around air vents:
View attachment 151043

View attachment 151042

We have to get to bare metal first, removing all the added layers.
View attachment 151041

Almost there on the inner side:
View attachment 151040

And now proceeding with the outer side, quite a lot of bondo. Let's dig deeper...
View attachment 151039

There is one fishy area for sure on the driver's side now it has been cleaned of paint and bondo:
View attachment 151038

More or less clean surface on the outer part
View attachment 151037

And inner part too:
View attachment 151036

Voila, the outer skin removed from the inner frame:
View attachment 151035

Frame, seems to have fire damage?!?
View attachment 151034

Cleaning the inside of both parts
View attachment 151033

Here too
View attachment 151032

With that done we can start to rebuild the parts:
View attachment 151031

Much better:
View attachment 151030

Templating and testing on the other side
View attachment 151029

And done
View attachment 151028

A bit more here too
View attachment 151027

And now as both frame and skin have been repaired it is time to check how they fit together
View attachment 151026

Primered frame
View attachment 151025

And hood skin too
View attachment 151024

Add some glue
View attachment 151023

And put the hood back together
View attachment 151021

A bit of finishing touches
View attachment 151020

Test fitting, panel gapping etc to follow and it is done. Roof still remains from the big items on the body shell, so... to be continued :)
Excellent work
 

Candia4441

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Update for October, hours spent - 58h
and all of it just on the hood :)

So here goes with the photos, a detailed process of restoring this POS, but I could not find a more better part nearby, so what can you do. Cannot say better than new, but it is going to be decent and is definitely usable.

Starting point is this:
View attachment 151045

View attachment 151044

A lot of rust issues around air vents:
View attachment 151043

View attachment 151042

We have to get to bare metal first, removing all the added layers.
View attachment 151041

Almost there on the inner side:
View attachment 151040

And now proceeding with the outer side, quite a lot of bondo. Let's dig deeper...
View attachment 151039

There is one fishy area for sure on the driver's side now that it has been cleaned of paint and bondo:
View attachment 151038

More or less clean surface on the outer part
View attachment 151037

And inner part too:
View attachment 151036

Voila, the outer skin removed from the inner frame:
View attachment 151035

Frame off, the whole bonnet seems to have fire damage?!?
View attachment 151034

Cleaning the inside of both parts
View attachment 151033

Here too
View attachment 151032

With that done we can start to rebuild the parts:
View attachment 151031

Much better:
View attachment 151030

Templating and testing on the other side
View attachment 151029

And done
View attachment 151028

A bit more here too
View attachment 151027

And now as both frame and skin have been finally repaired, it is time to check how they fit back together
View attachment 151026

Primered frame
View attachment 151025

And hood skin too
View attachment 151024

Add some glue
View attachment 151023

And we can put the hood back together
View attachment 151022

View attachment 151021

A bit of finishing touches
View attachment 151020

Test fitting the hood, panel gapping etc to follow and it is done then.
Roof still remains from the big items on the body shell, so... to be continued :)
Hello, you are very talented to fix the car body part, I have many body part like the hood I have 2, fender and complete rear end, in case if you need any you let me know I hope you are not far from me I am in Los Angeles
 

xjan99

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Hello, you are very talented to fix the car body part, I have many body part like the hood I have 2, fender and complete rear end, in case if you need any you let me know I hope you are not far from me I am in Los Angeles
Thank you. I am ONLY on the other side of the world, but thanks for offering! I am sure there are many who need these parts more local to you.
 

Candia4441

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Thank you. I am ONLY on the other side of the world, but thanks for offering! I am sure there are many who need these parts more local to you.
thank you for answering me, I offer since I saw you are spending time to fix rust damedge it is very hard job but you are talented guy. God bless you.
 

xjan99

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Help needed :)!

Can you guys please help identify, what airbox is used on this E9 with the S38 engine?

1669307153037.png


Nah, never mind. I am 99% positive after looking at various options this is a custom airbox designed from the standard M30 airbox, 13711271270
 
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xjan99

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The previous post with the question about the airbox might give a clue of what is going on... but here are the full details for stuff done in November, a lot.. 138,5h spent on the car (+ a lot of more scratching the head, looking for parts etc).

Starting off with the finishing touches on the hood. Panel gapping and making the final adjustments here:
IMG_20221108_103814.jpg


IMG_20221108_113357.jpg


IMG_20221108_114152.jpg


Next on the list is reinforcing the differential attachment points:
IMG_20221109_082155.jpg


IMG_20221109_082223.jpg


IMG_20221109_110620.jpg


And we turn our attention to the parts piles. First, the big stuff... does the gearbox I had on the M30 work with the S38?
IMG_20221110_101537.jpg


Yeah, not quite as see on the previous photo. The bellhousing is slightly thinner on the bottom side so cannot be bolted to the reinforcement plate the S38 has.
IMG_20221110_144935.jpg


And no place to put these flywheel sensors:
IMG_20221110_152836.jpg


After a bit of head scratching, we find a refurbished G265 from a E30 M3 in the workshop... and it is exactly what we need. A S14 bellhousing fits perfectly so we quickly source one
IMG_20221111_103007.jpg


M30 dogleg vs the S14 dogleg bellhousings/gearboxes side by side
IMG_20221111_103519.jpg


After ca. 1,5 years the car has come off the dolly, so we can start throwing more stuff on the car to test fit everything, make necessary holes, shave off a few more unneeded brackets etc. All of this stuff will later come off the car of course to be completely renewed as well when the body goes to the paint shop.
IMG_20221114_110605.jpg


And we can now also get to some areas that still needed welding:
IMG_20221115_102358.jpg


IMG_20221115_102455.jpg


Rear subframe going in:
IMG_20221116_101101.jpg


There...
IMG_20221116_111835.jpg


And all buttoned up now
IMG_20221117_085256.jpg


Time to test fit the engine:
IMG_20221117_101624.jpg


Nope, we have some clearance issues here:
IMG_20221117_102743.jpg


So in jumps a familiar fellow with his 3D scanner to scan the whole engine bay:
IMG_20221117_135525.jpg


And the complete engine-transmission-front subframe assembly:
IMG_20221117_154654.jpg


So he can play around with the parts without heavy lifting :)
316040146_817126962895949_5025750142957807870_n.jpg


Well,...
316050839_687149369405074_12151546884732986_n.png


we told you, we have clearance issues :). So the brake servo/pump part has to be redesigned:
316049102_1185167615415429_1738677331929574192_n.jpg


With the brake components removed, we can push the engine in.
IMG_20221118_095321.jpg


The downpipes are a bit too close to the floor, thus need to be modified.
IMG_20221118_095339.jpg


But all clear here (I have the S38B36 headers as you can see)
IMG_20221118_095355.jpg


The damn reinforcement plate most probably needs to be modified too. We ordered a fresh set of engine and transmission mounts to verify we get the most accurate position first.
IMG_20221118_095450.jpg


We might also need to hammer the firewall just a bit.
IMG_20221118_095656.jpg


Throwing more stuff into the engine bay.
IMG_20221118_143330.jpg


Should we keep the coolant radiator from M30?
IMG_20221121_105114.jpg


Nope, it does not fit nor belong here anymore. Go with the trash...
IMG_20221121_105129.jpg


We will order a new one from E28 M5
IMG_20221121_105146.jpg


Fuel tank, neck etc fitted, but it was sitting way too high. Now that I look at it more, I think we need to try mounting it from the bottom as it is a 1974 car...
IMG_20221123_084054.jpg


Steering column and heater box too. We will be going to install AC however and although I have parts from a E3, we are thinking about at least a semi-custom solution
IMG_20221123_084218.jpg


November update continues in the next post...
 
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xjan99

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We also saw the E24/E28 air filter box will not fit so we will have to come up with a custom solution using the M30 airbox as mentioned above, or build a custom one. The issue is, to have a large original size panel filter in a custom box would mean to loose the AFM, but I am not so keen on the idea of modifying the engine management electronics.... at least yet. And no, a cone filter is not an option for the "better than factory"-look I am after...

So while we have to wait for some new parts to continue on the engine bay side, we tackle the other sections of the car.

Headlights, grilles, etc in place:
IMG_20221123_084302.jpg


testfitting the bumpers... oh, these are ugly and also in bad shape too. With the rear I already had an idea of using the 2000cs one painted black or a fiberglass one.
IMG_20221123_101143.jpg


In the front, I thought I'd be running only the CSL front apron, without the bumper at all:
IMG_20221123_102500.jpg


And here it is attached (with nut inserts)
IMG_20221124_113646.jpg


We need to find slightly smaller stainless washers to make it perfect
IMG_20221124_113658.jpg


IMG_20221124_113757.jpg


But now, testfitting the front bumper (as I need it for registration and yearly inspection anyway), we came to a design idea of a slimmed-down bumper, all in one piece and trimmed to match the CSL apron so we would not have to cut into it. And I might keep the bumper then on the car all the time.
IMG_20221125_095815.jpg


Much better like so:
IMG_20221125_100724.jpg


Bolted together, it is time to weld it and shape it to make perfect. Eventually it will be painted black just like the idea I had with the rear bumper.
IMG_20221125_103158.jpg


IMG_20221129_085519.jpg


A lot of fine tuning:
IMG_20221129_101403.jpg


And it is done, reshaped to a slimmer appearnce too if you notice the difference with the photo above:
IMG_20221129_143747.jpg


Bumper ends also welded shut of course
IMG_20221129_143832.jpg


While initially I thought I had to buy a 2000CS rear one, we will modify the existing one and it will look just like the 2000CS one, but will be one piece ofcourse then too.

The "slim bumpers" idea is not completyly mine though, but came from this car. Looks pretty (to me at least). So we just had to copy it :)
01.jpg


13.jpg



08.jpg
 
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xjan99

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In December, we kept on test-fitting the parts mostly finding out what else needs to be ordered etc. Total hours spent in December 112.5h

One of the biggest items and concerns I had was the electric sunroof. A huge lego, that we managed to put together and it works! At least for now :)

Next up was redoing the rear bumper to a 1-piece design without rubber elements etc.
IMG_20221202_075452.jpg


IMG_20221206_084718.jpg


IMG_20221206_144141.jpg


IMG_20221212_133404.jpg


Then we test-fitted the CSL Scheel seat tilting mechanisms and made plans on what sliders to use.
IMG_20221214_082009.jpg


We also had a go with the rear seats and testfitted a few of the seat belts I had in the parts bin. Not quite what we need so I need your help finding a suitable set, it is a 1974 car...
IMG_20221214_101842.jpg


As we needed the car to be attached to the dolley with the engine and subframes accessible, we made new mounts for the car to sit on:
IMG_20221216_103923.jpg


IMG_20221216_103950.jpg


Trunk lid got its spring torsion thingy and other parts attached
IMG_20221219_114912.jpg




IMG_20221219_114919.jpg


And then we turned our attention to the chrome...
IMG_20221219_151207.jpg


IMG_20221220_081803.jpg


IMG_20221221_131912.jpg


And windows, making sure the installed motors run too
IMG_20221223_100510.jpg


And then mirrors. Although they seem to be original to this car and quite rare, I decided to use the manual more slimmer ones so new ones ordered.
IMG_20221220_155221.jpg


And another huge amount on misc. small items was ordered from W&N too. I am looking for a few chrome parts, door rubbers etc still among other things, so please offer me some if you have any, preferably in Europe.
 

Belgiumbarry

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haha, i thought i see some Belgian license plates scrolling here .... indeed, Eric's E9 !

btw, he's driving the Dakar rally for the moment ....
 
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